Experienced summer residents know how important it is for snow to lie on the site. If snowless, but frosty weather is predicted, then you definitely need to go to the country house to protect the plants from freezing. It is recommended to monitor the weather, and with the onset of severe frosts, it is worth building additional protection.
The dangers of a snowy winter
The snow cover acts as a blanket, warming bushes and tree roots. When there is very little snow, there is a danger of deep freezing of the soil. The root system may suffer damage and the plant will not recover in spring.
Trees, bushes and ornamental plants will either freeze out or suffer greatly and will not be able to give a good harvest next year.
Installation of barriers
The main enemy that prevents the formation of snow cover is the wind. It blows off a thin layer of snow. To keep the cover on the site, you need to put barriers.
It's good if you make a hedge of branches from the summer and place it around delicate plants. In addition, it gives an original look to the site. The decorative fence is beautiful and useful.
Shields arranged in a checkerboard pattern also prevent the riot of winds. Any materials for shields are suitable - old slate, polycarbonate sheets, several boards stitched together, used sandwich panels and tires. There is no need to put high barriers, otherwise the wind will rip them off. Shields can be moved around the site, thus accumulating boulders of snow.
Barrel layer protection
Fruit trees in frost need to wrap their trunks so that the bark does not crack on them. The reliability of the shelter depends on the growing zone. So, in Siberia, protective layers need to be done as much as possible, but in the Volga region this is not necessary.
To protect the near-barrel part, you will need a covering material - burlap, roofing material, rags, old clothes, agrofiber. The last three options are additionally wrapped in a moisture-proof material.
The near-root area is sprinkled with peat, earth, spruce branches. The colder frosts are expected, the higher these materials need to be applied.
It is advisable to cover berry crops first of all - they are more sensitive to adverse conditions than trees.
Low-growing strawberry bushes are sprinkled with mulch, straw, humus, and spruce branches are applied on top. For higher shoots of raspberries, currants, gooseberries, it will be necessary to lay sawdust, humus, spruce branches around them and in the root area.
Shelter of thermophilic
For plants that suffer even in light frosts, you can make reliable houses. A wooden box without a bottom and top is taken, and placed so that the sissies are in the center. And to the top they fill the house with sawdust and spruce branches.
The house is wrapped around the perimeter with foil or cellophane, closing the cracks.
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What is the threat of a snowless winter to the garden and orchard?
The garden and vegetable garden feel comfortable in winter, being covered with a thick layer of snow "blanket". But, unfortunately, this is not always the case, because sometimes there are snowless winters, like this one. When there is no snow, and the temperature is above zero, it is not so scary than when the soil freezes, and there is no protective snow cover. What is the risk for the garden and is there anything you can do to protect it?
Why is a snowless winter dangerous for plants?
A snowless winter is dangerous because the soil can freeze to a very great depth, thereby destroying most, and perhaps the entire root system of fruit crops, both pome and stone fruit. Of course, heat-loving crops, which we covered with non-woven material, will first of all suffer, but with the expectation that a thick snow layer will also fall on top: these are blackberries, gumi, strawberries. But what can I say, in a snowless and frosty winter, even gooseberries can suffer from frost.
The worst thing is that those cultures that froze out in especially harsh winters to the level of snow (the same gumi), this time, are likely to die completely: after all, their roots will also freeze out and restore the aerial part of the buds located on the roots, then they will no longer be able to eat due to the root growth.
What can be done to protect plants?
If frosts come, but there is no snow, and even forecasters do not predict it, then you need to act quickly, but wisely - not to waste a minute of time, but not to grab onto everything at once, otherwise it will only get worse. Pay attention to fruit trees and berry bushes first. All their bite zones and near-trunk stripes must be covered with a thick layer of humus or sawdust, the layer should be really thick, not a couple of centimeters, but at least 15-20.
In shrubs, the area of the trunk circle should be covered in this way (with a radius of about a meter or one and a half from the center of the bush), and for trees - equal to two meters or even three if the tree is more than one and a half decades old.
Protection of shrubs and fruit crops
Start with the most delicate crops like blackberries, raspberries, apricots, and then move on to apple trees, plums, and so on. Do not forget that the aboveground part can withstand severe frosts, but the roots, even in winter-hardy crops without snow, can die already in a frost of minus 15 degrees, if it lasts for five or six days.
To keep even the smallest grains of snow, be sure to put spruce paws on top of the mulch, they perfectly trap the snow, on top of that, they will slightly strengthen your insulation, prevent it from scattering around the site from sudden gusts of wind.
In the future, often visit the area where trees and shrubs grow, and if there is a little snow, try to collect it and additionally cover the plants. And remember - the snow should remain loose, fluffy, this is the only way to keep it warm.
When the shrubs and trees are securely covered, you can start covering the vines. It is advisable to do this on the same day, because if there are only a dozen shrubs and the same number of trees on the site, then it will take no more than a couple of hours to cover them.
Vines require mandatory shelter: lemongrass, actinidia and grapes. Be sure to remove them from the supports and lay them on sawdust or non-woven covering material, or on boards, so that the vine does not touch the soil. On top of the vines, it is also necessary to spread a non-woven material, and cover it with a layer of sawdust or humus 15-25 cm thick, then put spruce paws to trap the snow.
In such a "pie", the vines should be reliably preserved until spring, the main thing, having provided protection from mice, usually ordinary poisoned baits can serve it. Be sure that most of the buds on these plants with this method of shelter can even survive a snowless winter.
Now let's pay attention to the roses, the best option is to try to bend them to the ground and fill them with sawdust, but if this does not work, you can take five-liter plastic bottles, cut off the bottom and top of them, put a rose bush there and fill them with sawdust to the top, maximally sealing, and cover with a non-woven covering material on top.
Do not forget that roses can be pruned even to a height of 15-20 centimeters, there are enough buds on this part to restore the bush. Most importantly, do not forget to reinforce the material with something so that it does not fly away from the wind to a neighboring area.
Shelter of heat-loving crops in boxes
At the end of the day or the next, crops such as large-leaved hydrangeas, rhododendrons, peonies, buddleys and the like can be sheltered. They do not always endure snowy winters without loss, and if there is no snow, they will certainly die. Why did we postpone their hiding place? Yes, because this requires special preparation, namely, the construction of wooden boxes. You can knock them together from the rails, which are permissible from ordinary wooden boxes, just stuff them so that you get something like a box, but without a bottom.
After such boxes are ready, the bushes, if necessary, need to be tied with twine so that, when placing them in the boxes, they do not break the branches. Then, just to the top, these boxes should be filled with everything that is at hand, it can be sawdust, dry leaves and even rags - if nothing else is at hand. After the boxes are neatly filled, they need to be wrapped with a film, in a circle, isolating all the cracks and fixing it so that the wind does not rip off.
You don't have to cover the top of our box, but you should still put a couple of spruce paws. In the future, as soon as the snow starts to fall, you also need to sketch it out a little more: first, to the bases of the boxes, and then you can fill them completely, there will be nothing bad, the main thing is to quickly remove the shelters in the spring so that the soil and plants begin to warm up, wake up after the winter hibernation and acquire new shoots.
By the way, the boxes, after removing them, can not be disassembled into separate planks, they may well be useful in the future, the main thing is to place them in a dry place, or simply dry them well and place them in a shed or garage before winter.
Finally, strawberries. Some people do everything simply trite - they fill the plantation with water, literally freezing strawberries into the ice, this is quite acceptable, the main thing is that first you need to properly fence the site so that the water does not spread throughout the entire area, and the pouring process does not turn out to be too costly.
If you are afraid to flood the plantation with water or it sounds creepy for you, then cover the strawberries with a layer of sawdust 20 centimeters thick, you can also throw more spruce paws on top or spread a non-woven covering material, such protection should "work" and the strawberries will be reliably protected in a snowless winter.
These are the dangers of a snowless winter, and in these ways described above, you can save cultures from its negative factors. If you are armed with other methods of plant protection, then write about them in the comments, it will be interesting and useful for everyone to gain new valuable knowledge.
How to protect plants from frost in a snowless winter
We remind you that without a reliable "snow blanket" some garden plants can freeze.
Winter has come, the frosts are getting stronger, and there is no snow or very little. And the plants in the country are now tight. Without safe cover, they can freeze. If they did not have time to wrap them up in the fall, you need to do it now. Before it's too late!
The first step is to insulate the trunk circles of fruit trees and berry bushes. It is best to sprinkle them with peat, humus or large sawdust with a layer of 10 cm. Moreover, they should be sprinkled over the entire radius of the crown - up to 1.5-2 m from the trunk.
By the way, many summer residents mistakenly believe that only sissies should be insulated - blackberries, large-fruited raspberries, apricots. And apple trees, plums and cherries, they say, are winter-hardy crops, they do not need protection. This is not true. Severe frosts, even up to -40 ° C, their crown can withstand. But not the roots - they die already at -14 C.
And it is also important to remember that mulch saves from a not very strong cold snap, down to -15 ° C. The best protection for a garden is still snow. As soon as it falls out, you need to throw more of it under the trees and bushes. But in no case trample! Loose snow keeps warmth much better.
Grapes and actinidia also need shelter for the winter. They must be removed from the supports, laid on the ground (or even better on boards so that the vines do not come into contact with wet soil during thaws), and 20-30 cm of pine or spruce branches must be piled on top. It should look like a wigwam. It is not necessary to fall asleep with anything. Experience shows that on a vine laid on the ground, even in snowless winters, 70% of the buds survive.
Lapnik, by the way, is an excellent insulation for any plants. By itself, it does not warm, but it perfectly retains air and snow, which protect plants from the cold.
The best way to protect them from frost is to cover them with sawdust. If the shoots are very long, they can be bent to the ground and pinned. Or cut it to a height of 15-20 cm. On top of each mound of sawdust, you should also put spruce branches.
Such heat-loving plants as hydrangeas, rhododendrons, tree peonies, buddleys, gumi, goji and other people from a warm climate do not always endure our winters. You can mulch the roots with it, pour a mound of sawdust or humus to the trunk, but the crown will still die. It is good if the plant recovers from the roots. But not a fact. However, there is one way that will help to reliably protect them from frost.
Photo: Ekaterina MARTINOVICH
This is a box made of boards or plywood (see fig.). It is made a little larger than the size of the bush, put on top of the plant, and large sawdust is poured inside. No top cover needed - the green pet shelter must be open. Even very capricious plants survive with such protection.
If the bushes are very tall, you can erect the box to the middle of the crown, so that only large skeletal branches fall into it. The top in this case will surely freeze, but will recover in the spring. The main thing is that the main skeleton of the plant will be preserved.
Such boxes can be used for many years in a row: they can be removed in the spring and put back on the plant in the fall or at the beginning of winter.
Should Muscovites wait for a snowless winter?
On the very first day, winter, as ordered, poured some snow on the Muscovites. Although by all standards, at this time of the year we should already have small snowdrifts. However, meteorologists advise not to count on a snowless winter - the amount of snow in December is not an indicator (read on)
How to cover seedlings for the winter
When sheltering young trees for the winter, pay attention to the following points:
- Unlike adult trees, young seedlings, especially annuals, need to cover not only the stem, but also the crown.
- Before starting work, check if the seedling is stable. To prevent the strong wind from breaking the tree in winter, prepare a temporary support for it. This can be a stretch or frame (install several branches or boards around the trunk on all sides). Remove this additional protection in the spring.
- Take the prepared material, loosely wrap the trunk with it (the thinner the material, the more layers you need to make) and tie it in several places with rope or wire. During the procedure, bury the lower part of the covering material into the ground, sprinkle with soil and tamp. This will protect the trunk and root collar from mice. Then cover the crown of the tree in the same way.
- If the trunk is wrapped in cloth or paper (i.e. materials that will protect the tree from natural disasters, but will not save it from rodents), then an additional layer should be created on top. It can be a mesh-netting with small cells, roofing material, rose hips or other thorny plants. The main thing is that mice and hares cannot get through them to the trunk.
In addition, in order to scare off rodents and discourage them from feasting on young seedlings, special odorous mixtures are used, the smell of which is not pleasant to animals. For example, dilute 5-10 g of creolin in 1 liter of water and saturate it with sawdust. Lay them in the circles near the trunk.
To combat mice, special poisons are also used, which are laid out near the seedlings.
A young garden is like a child: in the first years of his life he cannot do without you in any way. Help him - and he will delight you for years to come.