Timothy Grass Care: Information About Timothy Grass Growing

Timothy Grass Care: Information About Timothy Grass Growing

By: Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist

Timothy hay (Phleum pretense) is a common animal fodder which is found in all states. What is Timothy grass? It is a cool season perennial grass with rapid growth. The plant gets its name from Timothy Hanson, who promoted the grass in the 1700s as a pasture grass. The grass is native to Europe, temperate Asia and North Africa. The plant is adapted to numerous climates and performs well in even cold, northern regions. Timothy grass care is minimal in most regions.

What is Timothy Grass?

The benefits of Timothy grass are numerous. It has broad appeal as hay for and horses, but when combined with alfalfa, it makes nutritious forage for sheep and other grazing animals. It is also made into food for guinea pigs, rabbits and other domesticated pets.

The plant is easily recognized when it blooms by its long narrow seed head. When does Timothy grass bloom? The inflorescence is produced in late spring to early summer or within 50 days of sowing. The plant can be harvested for hay several times during the growing season if planted in early spring.

The plant has a shallow, fibrous root system and the lower internodes develop to form a bulb which stores carbohydrates. The leaf blades are hairless, smooth and pale green. Young blades begin rolled and mature to a flattened leaf with pointed tip and rough edges. Each leaf may be 11 to 17 inches (27.5-43 cm.) long.

Seed heads approach 15 inches (38 cm.) in length and have spiky florets that become tiny seeds. Large perennial stands of Timothy grass growing in fertile lowland fields is a common sight in many states.

Tip on Timothy Grass Growing

Timothy grass is generally sown in spring or summer. It takes 50 days to establish for harvesting in most climates. The best time to plant late crops is six weeks or more prior to the first fall frost, which gives the stand enough time to establish before cold weather.

Sow the seeds in amended soil that has been tilled. Although Timothy grass grows in most soil types, the pH of the soil is important. Ideally, it should be between 6.5 and 7.0. If necessary, perform a soil test and amend soil with lime six months before planting the crop. Seeds should be planted ¼ to ½ inch (0.5-1.25 cm.) deep and lightly covered with soil. Keep the soil moderately moist.

Timothy Grass Care

This grass doesn’t do well in areas with excessive heat or in drought conditions. Consistent moisture is a must to develop a good stand. Often, Timothy grass is planted with legumes as nutritious forage for animals. The benefits of Timothy grass in this instance as tillage are increased nitrogen, percolation, drainage, and added nutrients.

When planted with legumes, additional nitrogen fertilizer is not necessary, but stands planted alone benefit from several spaced applications of food. Apply the first time at sowing, again during spring, and after harvesting.

Harvest hay before more than half the plants have formed flowers. Do not harvest down to the basal leaves, which will fuel the next generation of growth. After the first harvest, the plant is ready to be collected again in 30 to 40 days.

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What Is Timothy Grass - Uses And Benefits Of Timothy Grass - garden











Atascadero Hay and Feed is a local family owned operation. I’m Kevin Buffett, the owner, and I grew up in this county. I understand our unique local farm, ranch and livestock needs. The products we sell are the same ones I use in my own ranch operation – high quality products at a fair price. Those products are accompanied by the expertise of myself and my staff. We will strive to provide solutions to your problems, answers to your questions, with an abundance of local-grown home-town hospitality.

How to choose the right Hay:

We carry 3 different basic types of hay: Grass, Legume and Grain.


Grass hays like our Timothy have a high fiber content and are low in protein and calcium. It is one of the most common hays fed to horses. Grass hays should be the main component in rabbit, chinchilla and guinea pig diets. The seed heads contain protein and the stems are an important source of roughage. Orchard grass and Bermuda grass are quite similar to Timothy, only they have slightly lower protein and fiber content. Orchard grass hay has a slightly sweeter smell and a finer texture than Timothy. If your animal doesn’t care for Timothy hay, you might try Orchard Grass or Bermuda Grass as an alternative.

Legume hays, like Alfalfa, have a higher protein content than grass hays, and should be feed to active, working, lactating, young or convalescing animals that have higher nutritional needs. It can also be used as a treat for adult animals. Most animals adore the taste of alfalfa hay, however it is too rich to use as the only daily hay for most adult animals. It should be fed in moderation, or fed as a blend with grass or grain hays. Alfalfa hay should never be fed to animals with urinary tract problems. Look for alfalfa with a bright color and fine leafy stems.

The grain hay varieties we regulary carry are Oat Hay and Forage Hay. Oat hay is cut before the grain is fully mature and makes for an excellent horse and cattle feed. When choosing grain hay you want to look for hay that still has some color, but isn’t so far along (mature) that the seed heads begin to shell out.

Here at Atascadero Hay and Feed we are very particular about the hay we sell. We work closely with our growers to ensure we are providing the best possible quality hay for your livestock feeding needs. Our staff is available to answer any questions you might have about the different varieties of hay we carry, and what hay would be best feed choice for your rabbits, chinchillas, guinea pigs, sheep, goats, horses, cattle, llamas, alpacas and other exotic animals.

Hay is a very important part of rabbits, chinchillas and cavies (guinea pigs) food intake. To maintain a healthy digestive system they need a continual supply of grass hay as the majority of their diet. Besides nutritional needs, hay also plays several other important roles. Rabbits are self-groomers like cats and don’t need to be bathed like a dog. However unlike cats, they don’t have the natural reflex to cough up furballs. Because of this, intestinal blockages can be common and deadly in rabbits that are not fed enough fiber. Grass hay serves as a roughage and helps to move hairballs through your bunny’s digestive system. Pellets contain fiber, but rabbits need the long type of roughage that is found in the long strands of hay. In addition, chewing hay helps rabbits to deal with stress and boredom, and helps to keep their teeth worn down.

You should choose hay that is as dust free as possible, has few weeds and thorns, is mold free and slightly green in color. It should have an appealing fresh sweet smell.


Field of Grain in the North County


Recently Baled Straw in a Local Field

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We carry a variety of high quality alfalfa, grain hay and grasses for all of your pet and livestock feeding needs.

Alfalfa Hay

Alfalfa Hay is a high-fiber legume hay. It has the same long-strand fiber found in grass hays, only it has more protein, energy and calcium. In general alfalfa has 120% more energy than oat hay. Our alfalfa hay is very fine stemmed and weed free with lots of color. All sizes of animals love our alfalfa hay including rabbits, goats, sheep, horses and cattle.

Analysis

  • Crude Protein min 16.00%
  • Crude Fat min 1.50%
  • Crude Fiber max 32.00%
  • Moisture max 15.00%

Timothy Hay

Timothy Hay is 10% protein. It is a good source of copper and zinc. It has a good balance of protein and energy.

Analysis

  • Crude Protein min 10.00%
  • Crude Fat min 1.50%
  • Crude Fiber max 32.00%
  • Moisture max 15.00%

Bermuda
Our Bermuda Hay is grown in the Imperial Valley of California, providing the right conditions to grow top quality Bermuda Hay. Bermuda Grass is a less expensive alternative to Orchard or Timothy hay for those horses that are fed grain or supplements. With less protein than alfalfa, 8% - 10%, it is an excellent source of roughage for all types of livestock. Additionally, it is a good source of vitamin A and D without an overload in protein, and it has a better balance between calcium and phosphorus.

Analysis

  • Crude Protein min 8.00%
  • Crude Fat min 1.50%
  • Crude Fiber max 32.00%
  • Moisture max 15.00%

Orchard Grass

Orchard Grass is a flat leaf bladed perennial, cool season, tall-growing grass. Our orchard grass is high in fiber and low in protein to help support a healthy digestive tract. The leaves vary from green to bluish green depending on the maturity of the plant.

Analysis

  • Crude Protein min 7.00%
  • Crude Fat min 1.50%
  • Crude Fiber max 32.00%
  • Moisture max 15.00%

Oat Hay

Our Oat Hay is cut at exactly the right time, when the oat seed is out of the milk stage and into the dough. This ensures a high quality product still showing some color with good carbohydrate content and sweetness in the stem. Cutting at the proper time means animals will eat the entire hay stem with little waste. Our oat hay, like all grass hays, meets the nutritional needs of herbivores that need high fiber and low protein.

Analysis

  • Crude Protein min 7.00%
  • Crude Fat min 1.50%
  • Crude Fiber max 32.00%
  • Moisture max 15.00%


Forage Hay is a muliti grain hay that consists of oats, wheat and barley. This hay is relatively new to the hay world, but is an excellent feed for all classes of livestock. It has become very popular and is an excellent feed source. Just like our oat hay, our forage hay is cut at the optimal time to ensure a highly palatable feed for horses, cattle, goats and sheep. Our forage is locally grown and is not irrigated, so it does not develop large stems. This results in a desirable high quality hay.

Analysis

  • Crude Protein min 7.00%
  • Crude Fat min 1.50%
  • Crude Fiber max 32.00%
  • Moisture max 15.00%

Straw

Our barn stored straw is clean and shiny with good density to the bales. Straw isn't just used for bedding. High quality straw like ours can be used as a feed supplement. It can be mixed in with alfalfa hay, molasses or grain to add roughage and extend your feed bill dollar.


How to Grow Timothy Grass | Guide to Growing Timothy Grass


Binomial Name: Phleum pratense
Varieties:

Timothy is a versatile grass that can be fed to cattle and (especially) horses as hay, and also can provides suitable forage, usually in combination with a legume such as alfalfa, to sheep, cattle, goats and other animals. Also safe for other domestic animals including rabbits, guinea pigs and others. It is best suited as a cool-season grass. As always, consult an animal feed expert, veterinarian, or other qualified professional before initiating any feeding regime.

Growing grains is easy and fun! Buy heirloom grain seeds here and start today! See our complete grain growing guide here. Did you know that most grains can be sprouted for high-nutrient super-foods? Try our sprouts packs here with the 3-Day Independence Sprouts Pack. Getting cabin fever? Can't wait to get to that Spring gardening? Grow indoors right now with the Complete Micro Greens Growing Kit or the Micro Greens Seed Pack. Have a high nutrient vegetable garden on your windowsill this week!

For hay, thin to 12-18" or less

Growing Guide
GROWING NOTES
Timothy is ideally sown in late summer or spring. However, do not delay too long in your planting, as sowing in mid to late August or later may not give young starts enough time go become stable for the oncoming winter.

Due to its susceptibility to drought, timothy is more popular in northern climates that do not see proloungued periods of heat and dryness. To ensure that growing starts have enough time to become stable before winter cold sets in, sow seeds six weeks or more prior to the first average frost of the fall. Prepare the bed for sowing a few weeks before sowing by amending soil with needed, and consistently adding moisture.

Although timothy is sometimes cultivated as a forage crop, it is best suited as a hay for horses. Relative to other grasses used for grazing, timothy stores more of it energy and reserves in the bottom portions of the stem. The top of the leaves are thus less palatable and less nutritious than other grasses.

A well-prepared seedbed will help to promote higher quality timothy grass. This should be done 6 months or more prior to the expected planting date to ensure that added amendments have significant time to react with soil. The first step will be to test the pH of the soil with a tester, available at a farm or home & garden store. Ideally, the soil should have a pH between 6.5 to 7.0. Soil can be amended with lime (limestone) if needed to raise pH. Do not sow if pH is not 6.2 or higher. Amendment with organic fertilizers rich in nitrogen is recommended.

For grazing, orchard grass is best sown with legumes to provide a more balance nutritional profile and to assist with nitrogen fixation. Avoid sowing with other grasses.

Seeds should be sown approximately ¼-1/2" deep. Seeds sown deeper may not be able to break through the surface of the soil. Gently pack soil to ensure good seed to soil contact. Like most seeds, they require warmth and plenty of water to germinate. Do not start in arid or excessively dry locations or conditions. If sowing in fall, do not sow later than one month prior to the first average frost of the fall.

Timothy is sensitive to excessive heat and drought. Locations susceptible to these conditions will not support timothy and should be avoided. Timothy has shallow root structures and must receive consistent watering to flourish.

MAINTAINING
Timothy need plenty of water throughout the growing season. Additionally, it will produce better results with soil of medium fertility or better. If timothy is grown in the presence of a legume, it does not require fertilization with nitrogen. Otherwise, periodic fertilizing with nitrogen is recommended. This is most helpful when sowing, during the spring to promote growth, and right after harvests. Check soil periodically to ensure that pH remains between 6.0-7.0.

Heirloom seeds are the gardeners choice for seed-saving from year-to-year. Learning to save seeds is easy and fun with these books. Before you harvest, consider which varieties you might want to save seeds from so that your harvesting practice includes plants chosen for seed saving. Be sure to check out our newest seed packs, available now from Heirloom Organics. The Super Food Garden is the most nutrient dense garden you can build and everything you need is right here in one pack. The Genesis Garden s a very popular Bible Garden collection. The Three Sisters Garden was the first example of companion planting in Native American culture. See all of our brand-new seed pack offerings in our store.


Product Description

Climax Timothy

For quantities over 500 lbs. (more than 10 bags of 50 pounds) please contact us by Phone at 800 253 7346 or click here for a price quote and delivery options.

Timothy Grass is a winterhardy, perennial, cool-season forage grass renowned for producing high quality hay and forage. Climax is persistent and highly productive for hay and pasture mixes when it is not over grazed. It is highly palatable and can be a great companion to mix with perennial clovers, alfalfa, orchardgrass and other grasses and legumes with similar growing seasons and characteristics. It does not tolerate prolonged high temperatures and it does not do well in low rainfall areas so irrigation may be required in you are in a area subject to droughty conditions.

Plant during early fall or spring in a moisture firm seedbed 1/8 to 1/4 inch deep.

Plant at 8 pounds per acre when planted as a single species


Timothy Hay Care

The timothy hay field should not be trampled on during drought periods because the grass has very shallow and fine roots that are sensitive at these times.

Fertilizer

Feed it with fertilizer rich in nitrogen in spring and again after harvesting. If you’re growing timothy hay with legumes, skip the nitrogen fertilizer. For accuracy in fertilization soil testing is recommended.

Harvesting

Timothy grass hay should be harvested at the right time for best quality. The ideal harvest time comes at the early flowering stage.


Buy Timothy Seeds Plant Forage Grass Phleum Pratense

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Rise and Shine Rabbitry

When you start with rabbits you will read and talk to many older breeders, you will hear many recommendations of the benefits of feeding hay to rabbits. I agree with these source’s! This is what a rabbits gut was designed to do.

I feel you should give your rabbits all the hay they can eat, I do not restrict my rabbit’s hay diet. The main component of every rabbit’s diet should be fresh grass or hay.

Hay is good for your rabbit because the long fibers of hay help the muscles of the rabbits gut stay good, strong and healthy.

This added high fiber content is a very important to good dental and intestinal health in rabbits. Without fiber, their digestive system cannot move food through the gut. Chewing the hay will help to keep your rabbits teeth, which grow continually in good healthy shape. Hay fiber is the number one defense against intestinal blockages. Hay stimulates normal gastrointestinal processes, including digestion of food, absorption of necessary nutrients and excretion of normal feces. Without hay in their diet, the intestinal tract of rabbits may slow down or completely stop moving.

Hay not only meets some of the rabbits basic nutritional requirements, but it helps to keep rabbits occupied, reducing boredom. Rabbits will chew on almost anything, They seem to have little concept of what they can digest and what they cannot digest so keeping hay available will give them something to chew on that they can digest. Hay is an essential part of your rabbit’s diet, and you should no more leave your Rabbits without hay than you would leave them without water. Rabbits need lots of fiber, and hay provides it to them. A good quality hay should not be too expensive, and is really essential for your rabbit’s health and well being.

Proof of the diet playing an important role in gastric stasis is seen when wild rabbits are compared to domestic rabbits. Wild rabbits don’t succumb to hairballs or most GI problems so why should domestic rabbits? The primary difference between wild and domestic rabbits is diet. In the wild, there is plenty of grass, leaves and other plant material for the rabbit to eat. With a domestic rabbit, the diet is frequently offered as pellets or a few vegetables and fruits. Without sufficient hay, these rabbits tend to succumb to various illnesses, including gastric stasis and hairballs. So for the health of your rabbits feed them hay!

Hay is just grass that has been cut and left to dry out. It has the same health and digestive benefits that fresh grass does. There are many different hays available popular types include meadow, timothy, oat, and orchard grass. Any of these hays will provide a good source of fiber for your rabbit’s diet, but you don’t need to pick just one type. Mixing several different hays will provide your rabbit with a wider variety of flavours and even out differences in nutritional values. Timothy hay is the most popular rabbit feeding hay, and probably the easiest for you to obtain, but oat hay, wheat hay and bahia hay are all also okay. Alfalfa and Clover hays are tastier to your rabbit, but contain a great deal of calcium and protein, neither of which your rabbits need in large amounts.

You may be offered a choice between first and second cut hay. The terms first and second cut refer to the number of times that hay is harvested. First cut is better for your rabbits digestive system , but second cut is tastier. An old farmer once described the difference to me as follows: First cut is like the main course Second cut is like dessert.

Rabbits like the second cut better, much better! First cut has more body and fills their stomachs up quicker. In Maine, we usually have two cuttings per year, depending upon the varieties planted and environmental factors such as rain. Generally, first cuttings are more mature, stalkier with less leaf, resulting in coarser hay. Subsequent cuttings grow back with fewer stalks and more leaf, resulting in softer hay. The longer hay is allowed to grow before being harvested, the more fibre and less protein it will have. Some rabbits seem to prefer a courser, stalky hay, while others have a preference for softer hay. If legume hays are grown in the field with grass hays, second or third cuttings will also have more legume hay than the first cutting.

First Cutting: The first growth off of a field for the year is the “first cutting.” Many people feel that first cut hay is not to be considered as good feed. I tend to disagree, provided it is of good quality and was cut when relatively immature (pre-bloom stage), before the plant is allowed to mature to the point where the stem becomes larger and coarser. This is when the lignin (an indigestible part of the fiber component associated with cellulose and hemicellulose in the cell wall) content has become sufficiently high so as to make the hay more unpalatable and indigestible and the nutritive value has declined greatly. This can happen with 1st, 2nd, or any cutting of hay if left growing too long.

Second Cutting: Depending upon the temperatures of the days and nights, it typically takes 40-45 days for regrowth of alfalfa, mix hay, and orchard-grass , and 55- 60 days for regrowth of timothy. This is termed the “second cutting,” which usually has a larger percentage of leaves to stems, has a finer and softer stem, has increased percentages of crude protein and crude fat, and has a lower crude fiber percentage (depending upon the stage of maturity at which it was cut) . More non-structural carbohydrates (starches and sugars) and protein are in the leaves than in the stems. These starches and sugars are very digestible and make the hay higher quality.

Legume hay- Noticeably different than grass hay. A stalky plant with brittle, crumbly, flat leaves. Clover or alfalfa flowers may be seen as well. Alfalfa hay smells rich.

Timothy hay- Resembles flat, dried blades of grass. The color ranges from soft green to grey/brown green. Timothy has “solid cattail” tips for easy identification.

Orchard Grass- This hay has a similar appearance to timothy but has broken or open “cattail” tips, rather than solid. The tips tend to be pale brown

Generally, hay that is grown for horses is good and can be fed to your rabbits. Good hay should smell sweet or like fresh grass. It should be low in weeds and, although color varies with the type of hay, it should be green to greenish-grey in color.

Excessive dust or hay that does not smell sweet may indicate mould. Do not feed your rabbit moldy hay. Never, I repeat NEVER feed moldy hay, because it can make your rabbit seriously ill. Moldy hay may contain white dust, or black and/or white spots on the bale. If you drop the bale and a lot of white dust flies up, it could be a sign of mold. Thistles and other weeds should be picked out of the hay before serving, because some weeds, such as milkweed (a thick, fibrous stemmed plant with broad elongated leaves) are toxic and can make your rabbits sick or much worse.

GROWING YOUR OWN HAY-
Whether you’ve got a patch of long grass which you think would make good hay or are planning to sow a patch of timothy grass or herb mix especially to make hay for the winter months, similar rules apply to those of growing a herb patch or rabbit lawn but with the added considerations of cutting, drying and storing. Many herbs were traditionally dried for the winter months by rabbit breeders many years ago so why not today.

Any herb or wild plant you would feed fresh in season can be dried as herbal hay for winter use. Herbs you may want to consider drying include agrimony, avens, borage, thyme, rosemary, lavender, chamomile, calendula (the flowers are a good source of vitamin A), chickweed (a good natural source of copper), cleavers (an excellent spring tonic), coltsfoot, dandelion (but don’t feed too much as it is a diuretic), goat’s rue (aids lactation), golden rod (a great plant to feed as the plant grows back even bushier when you harvest the tips), lemon balm, common mallow, marshmallow, meadowsweet (a natural source of salicylic acid – the active ingredient in aspirin), melilot, mouse ear, plantain, shepherd’s purse (good for scouring) and yarrow.

Always harvest when fresh and green, as with grass for haymaking, dry well before storing. The rabbits love this in the winter and it helps them with the winter blahs! The trick is to make good hay so every mouthful packs a punch. So a good variety mix is the best! So prepare, fertilize and plant a small hay plot. Just like the big hay makers, harvest at the best bloom and during a time of warm, sunny days.

If you mow your lawn weekly, you might want to skip a week to let it grow out a bit. If you don’t have a lawn, you could try asking your neighbors. I am sure if you offer to cut their grass in exchange for keeping the clippings. Just make sure they don’t use any weedkiller/pesticides. Once you have located your patch of grass, next you need to cut it. It’s important not to use a lawn mower for this. Mowers chop up the grass and crush it which encourages it to begin fermenting. This is great if you want to compost it but no good for feeding to rabbits. If you’re cutting a big patch you could use scythe or sickle but you could also use a string trimmer/weedwhackers this will save your back and do the work in a fraction of the time. I have even used scissors or big hedge clippers, I can fill a pillow case or a feed sack very fast. Next is the difficult part, the grass needs to dry out (and turn into hay). There are a few options for this. You could leave the grass where you cut it and turn it a few times to help it dry. Our forefathers used wooden peg-toothed haying rakes if you’re handy with tools you could make one, but a wide-toothed garden rake will do. Check frequently and when the turned hay is fully dry, but still green and sweet smelling, hook a cart to your lawn tractor, grab your pitchfork and bring in the harvest.

The trouble with this is you are at the mercy of the weather. It’s important the air gets to it so I made a shelf out of some wire mesh. You could also use a covered deck, greenhouse, shed with windows etc. or you could lay it out on a sheet and just pick it up in the sheet when rain is forecast and pop it out afterwards. The top of a wire rabbit cage or run would be great if the weather is good That’s it for the hard work, now you just need to wait for it to dry. It dose not take to long for this. In less than two weeks it will smell and looked like tasty hay. Once it has dried out you can store it like you would normal hay. Something that breaths (like a pillow case would be best) just in case there is any moisture left. If you leave it out in the sun it will loose the hint of green and go golden brown (still edible but less nutrients). Store your hay in a well-ventilated area, out of direct sunlight. Don’t fork it directly on the floor, place it on top of wooden pallets to prevent ground contact. Pack it down and pile it high. It’s best to leave new hay uncovered for a few weeks until it finishes curing, but then top it with tarps to preserve cleanliness and quality. So grow your own good quality hay for you rabbits! By adding the herbs it is a nice change for your rabbits and a great healthy tonic. I hope you like this post and any questions or ideas are welcome!


Watch the video: Grass Seed Germination and Grass Growing Time Lapse