We grow onion sets in our garden

We grow onion sets in our garden

"Onions to your taste"

Experienced gardeners grow onion sets from seeds (nigella), which can now be found in any gardening store. Moreover, there are seeds and ordinary golden varieties, there is a white bulb, there is also a red one.

So, you bought the seeds. Then soak them in water for a day. This is usually done in late April - early May, depending on weather conditions and the readiness of the garden. After a day, sow these seeds into the soil in grooves 1–2 cm deep, placing rows every 10 cm. Seedlings usually appear on days 6–7. Watch the garden bed, weed it, water the seedlings carefully, periodically loosen the soil after watering.

Onion sets grow slowly. It ripens around the second decade of August. Choose a set with tops and lay it out to dry under a canopy for 10-15 days. The nutrients from the leaves are transferred to the bulb. When the leaves are completely dry, cut them off, leaving stumps 2-3 cm high. Store the seedlings in a dry room at a temperature of 0 - ... + 3 ° С or at 18 ... 20 ° С. Review it regularly and iterate over it. With this storage, the planted onion sets do not shoot the next year.



Growing onions from sets

Plant the sevok, sorted by size, early. Before planting, warm the seedlings at a temperature of 30 ... 40 ° C for 10-14 days to destroy the pathogens of downy mildew. You can even soak in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Do not trim it before planting.

Arrange the bulbs in rows every 8-10 cm, strictly bottom-down to a depth of 0.5 cm from the soil surface to the top.

Onion fly causes great harm to plantings. To combat it, spray the plants with a solution of pyrethrum powder (from chamomile flowers) or ash liquor with some scented soap (coniferous, tar, carbolic). Take 25-50 g of soap per 10 liters of warm water. Sowing nearby dill well protects against pests.

In case of drought, water the seedlings abundantly, loosen the soil, feed mineral fertilizers... For the best ripening of the bulbs in July, shake off the soil from them, exposing the bulbs, then stop watering and feeding.


Take away grown onions in the second half of August. By this time, the tops of the leaves dry up and lie down. They should not be accepted, since in this case the nutrients from the damaged leaves cannot penetrate into the bulb. Remove the onion with the feather and lay it out under the canopy to dry and ripen. Then separate the bulbs from the leaves or tie them into braids with the leaves. Store onions at a temperature of 20 ... 25 ° C in a dry place. When stored at a lower temperature, onions planted the next year are pointed out.

I want to say that now in St. Petersburg and the region there are such craftswomen-gardeners who, in one season, get from the seeds of nigella not sets, but large high-quality bulbs of marketable onions. True, for this, they first sow nigella for seedlings, and then transfer the resulting seedlings in the spring to the beds, where a real crop of onions grows. But this needs to be learned.

Tamara Barkhatova


Growing onions in the ridges

Hello dear friends!

We live in Karelia, where, you know, growing good vegetables in the open field and with our extremely short summer is very problematic. So I want to share my experience and some observations on growing onions.

I have always strived to provide my family and my daughter's family with my bow for the entire winter. To be honest, it was not always possible. And when there were publications about planting onions in specially made ridges, I became very interested in this agricultural technique. And she also began to experiment, cultivating onions in the ridges in her garden.

I drop out early

Our site is extreme, and on the south side there is continuous taiga. Snow melts in spring in late April-early May, so you need to hurry up with planting.

It is necessary to loosen the earth and arrange ridges on the ridge under the onions from the boards laid on the beds - the soil is still damp at this time.

I put in a little fertilizer: 1 tbsp. spoon "Kemira-wagon" for 1 sq. meter. Last season, cabbage grew on this ridge, and 1/3 of a 15 liter bucket of fresh manure was applied under each root. Over the summer, manure turned into humus, which is very good for onions.

Prepared ridges warm up for 2-3 days, and on May 8-9 I plant a set that I bought in a store. Last season I bought 1 kilogram of Stuttgarter rizen seed set. Before planting, the sevok was not processed or soaked in anything.

Onions plus carrots

I do not press the bulbs into the ground, but I make depressions with a peg with a limiter of 7 - 8 centimeters. Between the ridges (and the distance between them is 28 - 30 centimeters), carrots are sown in the grooves. These are either pelleted seeds of the Forto variety or any others pre-pasted on paper.

I fall asleep carrot seeds with pre-prepared (from autumn) and sifted earth stored in a greenhouse.

I cover the entire bed with plastic wrap, fix it well and watch when onion feathers appear under it. It happened that sometimes the snow would fall on the film, crush the feathers. But it is worth removing it - the onion quickly straightens.

Mutual protection

Under the influence of top dressing, watering and rains, the earth gradually "passes" from onions to carrots, that is, the ridges crumble and the onions become bare.

Onions and carrots mutually help each other to escape from pests, however, not one hundred percent. Therefore, from time to time I spray them with a concentrated decoction of needles or (if not available) stir a few drops of fir oil bought in a pharmacy in water.

The main purpose of such sprays is to drown out the smell of onions and carrots with a more persistent smell. Only then will the onion and carrot flies not fly to this bed.


We grow onion sevok in our garden - garden and vegetable garden

“Onions are from seven ailments,” they say among the people. But a healthy one can not do without an onion: in the kitchen, no housewife can do without it. Onions, batun, leek, chives ... Our old acquaintance is also multifaceted.

You will read about the benefits of different types of onions, about the features of their planting and cultivation in the publications collected in this section. It turns out that onions can decorate not only our table, but also a vegetable garden, and some of its types are appropriate in a flower bed!

We are waiting for your interesting stories about what kind of onion you plant in your garden, about the secrets of its harvest, about the nuances of storage. If you love this hot vegetable and know how to grow it, you sure have something to share!

How to get your own onion seeds, how to propagate your favorite variety, and what types and varieties of onions exist in general, where is it better to store sets, is it possible to plant onions before winter - experienced summer residents know the answers to these and other questions. If you have not found information on the site about what interests you in growing this crop, ask our readers - there are probably those among them who will help solve your problem.


We grow onion sevok in our garden - garden and vegetable garden

Views: 8473 Posted: 30-03-2015, 14:49 Comments: 0 Posted by: natanikola

Common onions are a two-year-old culture. First, you need to sow the seeds to grow small bulbs, and the next year, these bulbs will grow into full-fledged ones. In order not to interrupt the growing cycle and every year to have both planting material and onions, it is necessary to grow onion seeds and bulbs every year.

Growing onion seeds begins by selecting the largest, best and healthiest bulbs. The optimal size of the selected bulbs is 5-7 cm. Large bulbs grow a large number of arrows, therefore planting large bulbs on the seeds will increase the yield. The large size of the bulbs also gives good growth, which is not unimportant.

You need to select bulbs for planting after harvesting. They need to be well dried and stored at temperatures up to 3 degrees Celsius in a room with an air humidity of no more than 80%.

Cooking bulbs for planting

Seed formation is a rather lengthy process, in order to speed it up, you need to properly prepare the bulbs for planting. A month before planting, the bulbs are brought into the room and allowed to warm up, for example, on the window for a couple of weeks. After that, the neck of each onion is cut off, capturing up to 1.5 cm of juicy scales. This not only helps seed shoots to appear sooner, but also allows diseased or damaged bulbs to be discarded.

The bulbs prepared in this way can be planted in disposable cups so that by the time of planting, the roots have already formed and the first sprouts have appeared.

Immediately after the frost leaves, uterine bulbs can be planted on the prepared bed. It is desirable that it be sufficiently fertilized and loosened. When planting, a distance of 25 cm is maintained between the bulbs, the planting depth is about 10 cm from the bottom to the soil surface, so that a soil layer of about 5 cm is located on top.

To save yourself the trouble of storing and pre-planting the bulbs, you can plant the bulbs in the winter. This is done in the first decade of October, so that the bulbs have time to take root before the onset of frost. The planting pattern remains the same, but in order to guarantee the preservation of the bulbs even in a snowless winter, you need to cover the garden with a layer of rotted manure and mulch.

With the onset of heat, the first sprouts of uterine bulbs appear. Care consists in maintaining moisture in the garden, removing weeds, loosening. When arrows-peduncles appear, which will greatly rise above ordinary feathers, you need to provide them with support and tie them well so that in a strong wind the bulbs do not fall under the weight of the peduncles.

If necessary, you can use ordinary onion feathers, which grow in addition to the arrow-peduncles in a sufficient number. It will not be a big deal if you tear them off even by one third, besides, they will still grow back.
After flowering, the uterine bulbs must be stimulated for the early maturation of the seeds. To do this, I turn them a little in the ground or hold them up so that the bulb takes care of the formation of offspring and directs all its "last" forces to this.

When there are black seeds in the boxes, it's time to harvest. Seed arrows are cut, tied in bundles of several pieces and dried in a ventilated room. When the capsules are completely dry and begin to "rustle" and crumble when rubbed, you can completely cleanse the seeds from the seed capsules and sift them from the husk in the wind. The finished seeds are stored in cloth bags at room temperature until planting. Seed germination lasts two to three years.

In the spring, seeds are sown in wide rows, scattering them thicker. Due to the fact that the seeds are sown densely, the onion sets grow small. Small bulbs do not produce a seed arrow in the first year, which means they form the correct full-fledged onion crop. If, nevertheless, the seed has started up the seed arrows, then it is advisable to pick them off as early as possible and use these bulbs without leaving them for storage.

To avoid pest damage, beds with seeds, seedlings and uterine bulbs must be located at a distance, and also observe crop rotation - do not return the planting of the same crop to the same place earlier than after 4 years.

It is important that the set grown from seeds and the onion should be removed on time. The time of harvesting can be judged by yellowed and lodged feathers, coarse scales and a small number of roots - such onions are removed and dried in the shade, after which the roots are cut off and the dried neck is cut off. If you are late in harvesting the onion and leave it in the garden, then it will begin to root again, which means that the dormant stage will enter the growth phase and such an onion will be very poorly stored.

The planting of seeds, uterine bulbs and onion sets should be done annually to provide the garden with planting material and marketable onions. It is advisable to dwell on one variety, so that during all stages not to confuse varieties.


Harvesting and storage of onion sets

The time for harvesting can be determined by the appearance of the onion sets. He is ready to harvest if his feathers begin to turn yellow, and the bulbs seem to lie on the beds. This usually occurs between late July and mid-August.

All bulbs must first be removed from the ground along with the feathers, and then laid out to dry under a cover that reliably protects from precipitation, and left there for two weeks. On clear sunny days, onions can be laid out directly in the sun on the beds - this will speed up the drying of the bulbous feathers. Dry tops are usually cut off, leaving small two-centimeter tails on the bulbs.

Onion sets can be stored in a cool basement or at home. Suitable storage containers are cardboard boxes or small bags made of natural fabric. When storing in a basement, a temperature is required - from 0 to 3 degrees Celsius, and in a living room - about 18 degrees. Under other temperature conditions, onions will spoil their sowing qualities.

Bulbs less than 1 centimeter in diameter are better stored in cool conditions, and larger ones in warm conditions.


Growing onion sets from seeds

Why are many summer residents in no hurry to purchase onion sets in the retail network, but try to grow it on their own? Buying an onion in a store, there is no guarantee of its quality: it is not known where it was grown, how it was fed and how it was looked after. And everything is quite the opposite with planting material grown by your own hands and in your garden.

The process of growing onion sets is troublesome and requires a lot of patience. But for persistent gardeners, nothing is impossible. You just need to clearly follow all the recommendations for growing and care, and then there will be no problems.


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