In Japan and China, this variety of cabbage has been known for a long time. It is used to prepare complex dishes such as stews, national dishes, and of course fresh. In Russia, Japanese cabbage is loved for its delicate taste, delicate aroma and simplicity in agricultural technology. Growers and farmers alike reap several crops of this vitamin and fiber-rich cabbage.
Description and characteristics
The closest relatives of this plant are Peking cabbage, they have a similar taste and composition. In America and Australia they call her Japanese mustard, or salad.
Delicate green sprouts, graceful and fragrant, collected in a rosette, grow rather quickly after cutting. The delicate mustard taste is misleading, and many people mistake cabbage for mustard.
Seeds began to be brought to Russia by amateurs - breeders, and in the past 10 years it has firmly entered the list of vegetables of many gardeners.
Ease of cultivation, excellent taste and yield are the main features of this variety.
Japanese cabbage is one of those varieties whose effects on the body are undoubtedly positive. It contains significant amount of vitamins groups B, PP, C, as well as magnesium, potassium, phosphorus.
People who monitor their diet, the quality of products, follow a diet, have long made a choice in favor of this delicate vegetable. The compounds of trace elements contained in it easily fight against vitamin deficiency, it is indicated for diseases of the stomach and digestive tract, for the prevention of oncology.
Unlike ordinary cabbage, it easy to digest, improves intestinal motility, normalizes stool.
When combined with hot peppers and olive oil, cabbage is believed to be helps to get rid of obesity... Adding it to salads makes them light and nutritious, but at the same time, quite satisfying, and this is very important in the fight against excess weight.
The best Japanese cabbage varieties to grow from seeds
Several varieties are in demand in Russia, some have already been zoned and entered in the register of breeding achievements. Each of them is good in its own way, and differs not only in appearance, but also in taste.
Mizuna Green and Mizuna Red
Two excellent varieties of Mizuna, and above all, they are distinguished by the subtlety and tenderness of the carved leaves.
The decorativeness of the varieties allows you to use cabbage in decorating dishes.
Green - a plant with emerald bright and juicy greens, Red - green, with a reddish bloom. Both varieties are rich in ascorbic acid and fiber, but the most thermophilic of all known. From planting to technical ripeness, you need to wait 1.5 - 2 months.
The little Mermaid
The Little Mermaid variety has already proven itself as sufficient cold-resistant... Available in almost every garden store.
Mid-season - from planting to ripeness 55-60 days... You can not cut the cabbage in a bunch, but one stem at a time. This allows you to start using it for the table earlier.
In a rosette up to 60 leaves up to 40 cm high. up to 6 kg from 1 sq.m. Not subject to flowering, if overheating of the soil is avoided during the period of leaf formation. With this variety, perhaps, there will be the least hassle. After cutting, the sprouts grow back in 8-15 days, and their quality remains excellent.
Another famous variety that conquered gardeners. Thanks to ultra-early maturity, the rapid regrowth of cut stems, has become one of the permanent vegetables on the table.
Matures 30 days after landing, the cut grows back in 10 - 12 days in full. During the summer, you can take 5 - 6 crops.
The weight of one plant reaches 500 g., And from 1 sq. M. it is possible to withdraw at a time up to 6 kg.
The only negative is that it is not for heat treatment. Suitable for salads, as an independent dish, as greens in complex appetizers, as a decoration for meat and fish dishes.
Site preparation for sowing
Unlike the usual white cabbage, Japanese cabbage:
- Photophilous... The more sunlight, the faster and better the leaves will develop;
- Does not tolerate transplants, therefore, it is sown with seeds directly into the ground to a permanent place;
- Selective to soil, but one should not get carried away with organic matter, since it easily accumulates nitrates;
- Does not tolerate overflow unlike white cabbage, but overheating can also cause flowering;
- Cold-hardy sprouts, and you can not be afraid for early shoots - they easily tolerate temperatures down to minus 4.
If the soil is excessively loamy, you can add sand and compost, some black soil, or sod soil. Mid - end of April you can prepare a bed, dig it up, spill it with water, and cover it with a film so that the earth warms up.
The seeds of Japanese cabbage are very small. Consider this when landing.
The distance between the rows must be left not less than 30 cm... Distance between seeds 15 - 20 cm.if the crops are frequent, you will have to thin them out, otherwise they will interfere with each other.
Try to immediately plant the seeds as far apart as possible, since it is easy to touch the neighboring very delicate sprouts when sprouting.
- Shallow grooves, no more than 0.5 cm, pour warm water, press the earth into them again, spread the seeds and lightly sprinkle with earth.
- Cover with plastic or non-woven fabric. The second option is more desirable here, but it is better to use both shelters.
- Remove the film only after germination, and leave the covering material.
Planting seeds in early spring, this will reduce the level of color as much as possible. It is better to catch light frosts in the first two weeks than to overheat the sprouts.
The ideal temperature for this plant is 15 - 20 degrees above zero. After sprouting, watering is carried out very carefully, with cool water, and only after the soil dries out.
As soon as the plants begin to pull up, it is necessary to add soil between the rows. Top dressing should be carried out only after the first cut. For this, ready-made vermicompost dissolved in water is suitable. Do not be afraid of rainy cool weather and cover the cabbage - it will survive perfectly.
Because Japanese cabbage grows quickly after being cut, you will reap several crops.
First collection, depending on the variety you receive after 30 - 60 days, and the next ones are no later than after 15 days... Cut off the entire aerial part so that the white stems are barely visible. The root must be left intact.
After cutting, spill it with vermicompost, or herbal infusion diluted in water, and wait for a new batch of beautiful and healthy greens.
This vegetable is excellent in many characteristics, but first of all - in its taste and aesthetic qualities. You can use it in the garden not only as a vegetable, it is decorative and will become an edible decoration. With Japanese cabbage, fresh and healthy greens on your table are guaranteed throughout the summer.
Mizuna - Japanese cabbage for the lazy
Mizuna salad is a category of green pepper salads, a representative of the Cabbage family. In other words, it is also called "Japanese cabbage". The leaves of the planting have jagged edges and form an appearance as if they were deliberately cut with scissors. The flavor of mizun salad is not like other types of salad greens: it is both mild and spicy at once.
Bonsai japanese sakura seeds
Although popular in Japan, trees are native to China. This ornamental fruit tree is strikingly gorgeous and is a favorite among bonsai lovers.
There are several popular Japanese sakura trees:
- Prunux x yodoensis
- Kwanzan cherry
They all offer beautiful flowers, but differ in their characteristics. In the 20th century after World War II, Japan offered imported bonsai trees to the United States. They are said to be a symbol of friendship.
These trees, which were donated to the United States, were planted in the District of Columbia. They bloom in the spring and create a pink and white spectacle throughout the grounds. Tourists flock to the capital to witness the beautiful flowers.
However, it is not just full-sized trees that are famous and popular. Japanese cherry blossoms are also a valuable asset. The royalties in Kyoto made them decorative ornaments.
Japanese quince, growing from seeds and care
Japanese quince, cultivated in Ukraine and Russia. Photo of quince. Growing at home.
Today, the Japanese quince (see photo) has become quite interesting for gardeners. And along with this, the cultivation of Japanese quince from seeds. Since many gardeners ask themselves the question “quince tree or shrub”, I would like to clarify that quince is a bush with a huge yield, which will not make a good and vigilant owner wait long for the fruit. In Ukraine and Russia (in the middle lane), two of the most popular types of quince are grown - this is Japanese quince low and, it is not difficult to imagine, Japanese quince is high. As the name implies, all two species were brought to us from Japan. Quinces are usually cultivated in early spring. During this period, before the buds begin to open on the bush, you need to plant the quince in the ground. Especially if you bought low Japanese quince cuttings, you should plant it in early - mid-March.
Correct cultivation of quince seeds
Also, seeds can be used to grow quince. To do this, even in early or mid-February, quince seeds should be placed in a small box with wet sand, for approximately 60-75 days. At the beginning of March, we begin landing in a still damp ground. This should give the seeds an excellent amount of energy for the formation of the root system and the bush itself, which by the beginning of autumn should grow by 50-55 cm. Please note that immediately in the fall you should transplant the Japanese quince seedling to its permanent place. You need to dig in it no deeper than it developed before the fall. If you want to make a garden of quince, the distance between the bushes should not exceed 1 m, and the width between the rows should not exceed 2.5 - 3 m. Quince bushes prefer places that are protected from the huge wind, you should think it over right away.
Japanese quince, care
In the process growing quince bush, the development of the branches should take place parallel to the ground under the bush. It is necessary to monitor the height of the bush above the ground, it should not exceed 25-45 cm. You should constantly clean the quince from excess branches in order to prevent the growth of the bush and branches. On average, one quince should have no more than 15 branches.
3. Preparing the correct soil mixture
To grow strong cabbage seedlings, you need to properly prepare a nutritious soil mixture. Ideally, the soil for cabbage seedlings should be prepared in the fall, but if for some reason you did not have time to do this, you can start compiling it right now. Mix 1 part of turf and humus, add a little ash (10 tablespoons for every 10 kg of soil) and mix the substrate well. In this case, ash will be a source of not only micro- and macroelements, but also an excellent antiseptic that can prevent the appearance of a black leg on cabbage seedlings.
Seedling soil is an important element of success
Of course, you can prepare any other nutritious soil mixture - not only sod soil, but also, for example, peat. The main thing is that the resulting soil is breathable and fertile. And also, when preparing potting soil for cabbage seedlings, never use the garden land on which cruciferous crops were previously grown: it probably contains infections typical of cabbage, and the likelihood of getting seedling diseases increases significantly.
And in this video, our expert Tatyana shares her experience in compiling soil for seedlings:
As you can see, it is really undesirable to take land from the garden.
Growing seedlings from seeds, sowing, planting
There are many varieties of cauliflower. It can be early, mid or late. Differs in inflorescence size, color and taste. A large number of hybrids have been developed, differing in early maturity, productivity and disease resistance.
The best varieties of cauliflower:
- Early Gribovskaya
- Station wagon
When choosing a suitable variety, you also need to consider the storage duration. There are some that lie well until spring, and some lose their appearance within a few days after cutting.
Features of growing cauliflower
The difficulty of growing cauliflower is most often associated with weather conditions. This vegetable does not tolerate low temperatures, but also reacts unfavorably to heat.
If the air temperature is above 25 degrees and the plant lacks moisture, then you can forget about a good harvest. Growth instantly slows down, small and loose heads are formed.
For the ovary of a good harvest, the optimum air temperature is 15-20 degrees.
Growing cauliflower seedlings requires good lighting. This speeds up the tying of the head and its growth. But if the daylight hours are too long, then the plant can react with rapid growth and the release of flower shoots from the head of cabbage.
The last characteristic of growing cauliflower is the composition of the soil. The vegetable is very demanding on nutrition and, with a lack of nutrients, begins to hurt, premature stiffening of the stump, rotting of the head and deformation are noticed.
How to grow cauliflower seedlings
Cauliflower seedlings are planted in the second half of March or early April, depending on the region and its climatic conditions. When to plant cauliflower seedlings can be calculated. To do this, it is necessary to subtract 45 days from the estimated time of disembarkation in open ground. That is how much time it will take to grow and care for seedlings of cauliflower.
There are many ways to grow cauliflower seedlings. This can be done on a windowsill, grown in a greenhouse or any other heated room. If weather conditions permit, then sowing cauliflower for seedlings can be carried out in an insulated greenhouse or on a manure bed.
How to plant cauliflower:
- Before planting cauliflower, the seeds must be soaked in water at room temperature for a day.
- It is necessary to prepare a nutritious soil from a mixture of turf soil, humus, peat. If the components are taken from the site, then it is advisable to spill it with a manganese solution. The soil is laid in boxes for planting cauliflower.
- The seeds are immersed in the soil to a depth of 1 cm, covered with earth and a small amount of sand.
Cauliflower picking is carried out 15-20 days after germination. It can be carried out in individual containers or also in boxes. The root system of cauliflower is much weaker than that of white cabbage. Therefore, it is recommended to plant the seedlings in peat cups to minimize the risk of damage.
After 3-4 leaves have appeared on the seedlings, you can carry out the first feeding. For this purpose, you can use a solution of ordinary nitrate. After 45 days, the seedlings can be planted in open ground. It is important that the plant has at least 5 true leaves by this time.
Planting and leaving
The best precursors for cauliflower are legumes and root vegetables. It is unacceptable to grow cabbage in one place for two years in a row, regardless of the type and variety. For disinfection, the soil can be spilled with a mild manganese solution. This will reduce the likelihood of illness. When choosing a place, you should give preference to well-lit beds.
How to plant cauliflower:
- Humus is introduced into the beds. One bucket for each square meter and dug up.
- Make holes. The distance between rows is 70 cm. Between seedlings is from 25. These parameters are for early varieties, for mid-season and late ones, the distance between bushes increases by 10 cm and 20, respectively.
- A plant or an individual cup is placed in the holes and sprinkled to the first leaves.
- Seedlings are watered abundantly.
It is important not to disembark during sundial. The optimal time is early morning or evening. Throughout the growing period of cauliflower, it requires watering.
If moisture does not come for 4-5 days, then growth slows down. After watering, the topsoil must be loosened It is important to remember that the root system of cauliflower is very weak and it is important to do it carefully.
Hilling is necessary as it grows.
During strong sunshine, it is recommended to hide the head from direct rays. For this, paper, broken sheets or sheets tied with twine from an outlet are suitable. Sun shielding will keep the heads white and prevent seed shoots from forming.
Growing without seedlings
Growing cauliflower from seeds directly into the soil is considered the most gentle method, as it reduces the risk of injury to a capricious root system.
How to grow cauliflower outdoors:
- The seeds are soaked for a day.
- Wells are prepared for sowing at a distance of at least 30 cm from each other.
- 5 seeds are placed in each hole to a depth of 1 cm. From above, the soil is watered and sprinkled with sand or dry earth so that a crust does not form.
- Each well can be covered with a cut bottle. It is better if the part has a neck through which airing and watering can be carried out.
- After germination, thinning is done and 2-3 strong plants are left. After 2 weeks, the leader is elected, the rest are removed. Can be transplanted to another location.
- As soon as the night temperature stops dropping below 10 degrees, you can remove the bottles.
Growing cauliflower from seed directly into the ground is easier and less time consuming, but not always possible. Sowing is carried out no earlier than mid-April and only under cover. In the middle lane, cauliflower is most often planted in the ground after the May holidays.
Pest and disease control
Japanese cabbage Mizuna is extremely rare, but plantings may suffer from an invasion of pests. The fight against insects is complicated by the inability to use chemicals, since the vegetable quickly absorbs all harmful substances into the leaves. That is why the beds are treated with more gentle means.
All pests, with the exception of the bear, are well repelled by wood ash and tobacco dust. These substances are used for both insect control and prophylaxis. You can sprinkle them on the plants in powder form or dilute with water and spray the beds.
Traps made by yourself can be used against the bear. The cooking procedure is as follows:
- 1 kg of wheat grain (you can also use oats or corn) is mixed with 30 g of unrefined sunflower oil.
- The resulting mixture is diluted with 50 g of "Karbofos".
- In April, the bait is buried in the ground to a depth of 5-6 cm. It cannot be left on the surface - the bait is poisonous for pets and birds.