Watering and feeding seedlings

Watering and feeding seedlings

When growing seedlings, in addition to maintaining optimal illumination and temperature, the plants are regularly watered, fed, and the soil is loosened.

Usually the seedlings are watered 1-2 times a week so that the soil is soaked to the full depth of the container. Excess water from the pallets must be removed after 2-3 hours. If the bottom of the pot is constantly in water, the root system suffers from a lack of air. This negatively affects its growth and the ability to absorb nutrients.

The rate of one-time watering usually ranges from 30 to 100 ml, depending on the size of the pot. A sharp fluctuation in soil moisture (overdrying - waterlogging) should not be allowed. It is better to water with settled tap water.

In addition to root watering, plants respond well to spraying them with water from a hand sprayer. This technique additionally supplies the plants with water and regulates the humidity and temperature of the air, especially when the room is dry and very warm.

Despite the fact that the soil contains a full range of nutrients, seedlings need to be fed... Root feeding (watering at the root) begins 10-12 days after germination or after picking and continues to feed the plants once a week during the entire seedling period. It is better to use a complex fertilizer Kemira lux or solution (20 g per 10 l of water), where there are all macro- and microelements in a good combination for young plants.

After picking the seedlings and before planting the seedlings in a permanent place (greenhouses, open ground), the plants are fed with calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 l of water). Calcium promotes more active root growth and quick plant survival after transplantation. As a top dressing, you can use an infusion of ash (1 glass is poured with 8 liters of hot water, insisted, filtered). Especially such feeding is needed for plants during prolonged cloudy weather and already adult seedlings before planting.

Root dressing spend on the second day after watering with water. Consumption rate of liquid fertilizers: 20-50 ml - in the first half of the seedling period, from 50 to 100 ml - in the second half.

Foliar dressing (from a hand sprayer) can be given to plants once every two weeks or more often: with weak growth of the aerial part, in cloudy weather, with damage to the roots. The fertilizer solution (Kemira lux or urea urea in a concentration of 1 g per 1 l of water) should fall on the lower part of the leaf, where the stomata are located.

For good air access to the roots, the soil is pierced with a fork or a sharp thin peg on the 2-3rd day after watering. You can loosen it only at the very walls of the pot, so as not to damage the roots.

T. Zavyalova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences


Dates of planting seedlings of cucumbers in Siberia in 2021 in open ground and a greenhouse

To correctly determine the timing of sowing cucumbers in Siberia, focus on the time when you will plant seedlings in open ground. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of your region.

In Siberia, the weather is changeable in spring, so the soil can warm up by the middle or only by the end of May (the optimal time for planting cucumber seedlings in an unheated greenhouse is May 20).

The best age of seedlings for transplanting to a garden bed is two to three weeks. By this time, young plants should have 2-3 true leaves. By the age of the seedlings, another 3-5 days should be added for seed germination. If the seeds you bought are not specially processed, but simple ones, add another 2-3 days to soak them. As a result, at least 20, and maximum - 30 days pass from the moment of the start of seed treatment to planting of seedlings of cucumbers in the ground. Based on this, it turns out that planting cucumbers for seedlings for growing in a greenhouse should be in Siberia - from April 20 to early May.

Be sure to consider favorable planting days so that cucumber seedlings in 2021 are efficient and fertile.


Stage 1 - sowing tomatoes for seedlings

It is better to sow seeds right away in plastic, cardboard, peat cups in order to avoid picking, which tomatoes do not like very much. But if there is not enough space, use seedling containers. The soil can be taken ready-made or made independently by mixing turf, sand, peat and leaf humus in equal proportions.

Before sowing, soak the seeds for 10-12 hours in warm water, preferably in thawed water - it is enriched with oxygen and contains much less salts. You will need very little water - just melt a handful of snow.

Make holes or grooves in the ground (as it is more convenient for anyone). Cover the prepared seeds to a depth of 1.5 cm with a rhythm of 2-3 cm. Under the film at T 20-25 ° sprouts will appear in 3-5 days.


Top dressing of peppers in the open field: when, how much and what

Pepper is a valuable, thermophilic and capricious crop in our gardens. Many summer residents believe that pepper is the most "gluttonous" among vegetables. Therefore, peppers should be treated carefully. Fertile beds for pepper are prepared in advance, and top dressing begins immediately after planting in the ground to help restore the delicate root system. For top dressing, you can use mineral and organic fertilizers in recommended dosages.

Fertilizers when planting pepper

To provide peppers with a full-fledged diet, it is better to cook a plot for a bed with peppers in the fall.

  • Before digging, add 5-10 kg to the soil humus (for 1 m²) or compost .
  • If this has not been done, then it is possible to put humus simultaneously with planting seedlings .
  • For deoxidation add 300-500 g lime for 1 m².
  • A full complex is brought in in the spring mineral fertilizers .

How to feed pepper after planting in the ground

Pepper is grown by seedlings, which are planted in the ground in the south of the Khabarovsk Territory in early June ... This is followed by the care techniques recommended for the culture: timely watering, weeding and feeding.

  • For better survival, the planted seedlings are watered with water at intervals of 2-3 days, and in case of drought, almost daily.
  • The root system of the peppers is very tender and takes a long time to recover after transplanting to the garden, up to 2-3 weeks. Therefore, after taking root, the seedlings should be fed.

The first feeding of pepper after planting in the ground

For this, dissolved in water (10 l) are suitable mineral fertilizers :

  • 10-15 g of ammonium nitrate,
  • 15 g of potassium salt
  • 20 g superphosphate.

The specified solution can be replaced organic fertilizers diluted with water in concentrations:

  • mullein -1: 10
  • bird droppings - 1:15
  • slurry - 1: 3.

1 bucket of these solutions is enough to feed 8-10 holes with seedlings

Watering must be very careful at the root. If fertilizer gets on the leaves, then immediately wash it off with water to prevent burns.

The second feeding of pepper after planting in the ground

  • The next top dressing is required 10-14 days after the beginning of flowering.
  • A little mullein can be added to the specified solution of mineral fertilizers (see above).

After fertilizing, as well as after watering, it is imperative to loosen the soil

Pepper yeast dressing

Experienced summer residents say that pepper responds very positively to the use of yeast dressings due to the fungi present in them. They stimulate both the growth of seedlings and adult plants.

To prepare yeast food you will need:

  • dilute 10 g of dry yeast in 10 l of water,
  • add 5 tbsp. l. sugar and a half-liter jar of wood ash and chicken droppings.
  • The concentrated solution is diluted 1:10 with plain water and irrigated.

Such food will be required no more than 2 times per season.

Some summer residents "do not bother" and instead of preparing such a solution, they are watered with ordinary beer.
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What top dressing does pepper need

After the formation of fruits, the dosage of mineral fertilizers doubles.

  • Before the first fruits appear, the pepper most needs phosphoric fertilizers that stimulate the restoration of the root system after transplanting into the ground and contributes to the uniform formation of generative organs (flowers, ovaries, fruits).
  • Nitrogen to be added before flowering and when fruit sets.
  • Critical in consumption potassium is the entire period from formation to ripening of fruits.
  • Good and foliar feeding along stems and leaves, but before fruiting.

This should be taken into account when planning feeding.
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How much dressing does a pepper need?

Pepper plants need additional nutrition during the entire period of their growth and development. You can apply different methods and composition of dressings. The main thing is to be guided by the principle - do no harm, which means do not overfeed. The most correct option is to conduct a preliminary soil analysis.

  • The procedure for feeding peppers should be carried out with a frequency after 2 weeks.
  • Usually 3 dressings are enough.

The plants themselves, their condition will indicate the need for fertilizing:

  • If a pepper bushes are tall, but flatly refuse to bloom , then we exclude nitrogen fertilizers, and pour them with an aqueous solution of superphosphate.
  • The lack of phosphorus will also indicate the underside of the leaves, its purple tint .
  • If a the leaf below has become grayish with a matte shade then there is not enough nitrogen. Feed with Urea or Crystallin.
  • If a pepper leaves curl , then you need to add potassium.

Galina Kuzmitskaya, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, breeder


There are several common situations when feeding is indispensable:

1) Untested purchased primer is used. No one can reliably say how he will behave, so it's better to play it safe once again.

2) The color of the leaves has changed. All summer residents know that healthy seedlings have rich green leaves. If they have a yellowish or purple hue, it is worth taking action.

3) The temperature regime does not correspond. Not all summer residents can observe the correct temperature regime, so top dressing is a necessity.

4) The light mode is incorrect. Plants will not be able to develop normally with a lack of light, measures must be taken.

5) The seedlings have begun to stretch or outgrow. The reason may be: high temperature, thickened plantings, poor lighting. Only spraying with a growth regulator will help prevent germination.


Step three - correct pick

Place a drainage layer in each pot. To help it perform its functions better, place a piece of nonwoven material between it and the earthy substrate. Compact the substrate, make a round planting hole with a spoon. By the time of the pick, the soil in which the seedlings grow should be moderately moist. The optimal time for planting is well-developed cotyledons + 2-3 true leaves. It is more convenient to remove the seedlings with a fork - the spoon displaces and breaks the thin roots. Water the rooted seedlings with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to prevent black leg disease. Send to a light-colored windowsill for growing.


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