How to get rid of reeds in the area: effective methods of weed control

How to get rid of reeds in the area: effective methods of weed control

For 3 years I have been struggling with reeds in my area to no avail. The site is raised, leveled - 70 cm ASG and separate bulk ridges are made. Tell me, please, with what herbicide it is possible to destroy it and in what period to act in order to get rid of it?

Olga.

Specialist's answer

Hello Olga!

Your problem is familiar to many gardeners, gardeners and farmers. You are not alone in fighting the reeds, and believe me, this is a very time-consuming and tedious task. If you want to remove an uninvited weedy guest from your possessions, you need to take it responsibly and ... with your imagination!

Let's figure out what actually grows on your site and why it appeared there.

Many gardeners often refer to the common reed (Phragmites communis), or southern (Ph.australis) as reeds. It is a long-rooted perennial grass with tough gray-green leaves and large thickets. The height of the shoots is 15-200 cm, in autumn they are crowned with fluffy inflorescences-panicles. This plant is not demanding on soil and grows mainly in low-lying swampy areas, but it can settle in more arid places, although it does not grow so aggressively there. The rhizomes of this plant are so powerful and durable that they can even pierce the waterproofing of a garden pond.

This is what Phragmites communis looks like

Unlike reed, Lake reed (Scirpus lacustris) is not so aggressive, has shortened thick creeping rhizomes and shoots 100–120 cm high and sparse leaves. On the tops of the plant, brown inflorescences appear, collected in panicles. Also grows in shallow waters, muddy moist soil. Gives self-seeding and grows strongly.

Scirpus lacustris, or Lake Reed

Why is it so difficult to fight against the common reed, which is popularly called the reed? It's all about its roots. They are very long - up to 2 meters and branchy, they penetrate deeply into the soil. At the same time, the plant is extremely aggressive.

To understand why this cereal appeared on your site, think about whether your neighbors have reed thickets, do they struggle with it? Maybe it grows in natural conditions very close to you - somewhere nearby is a river floodplain, a swamp, a lake? Is your garden located in the lowland formed by the surrounding landscape?

You wrote that the site has been raised and that fill ridges have been made. This is very good, will go into the piggy bank of the fight against malicious weed. But this measure may not always help. The fact is that even if you raised the soil level in your garden, groundwater can still be located very close to the surface, and this will already be enough for the insidious cereal to feel at ease. So let's cut off oxygen for him and show all perseverance and imagination for this.

The people did not think of anything to exterminate the enemy from their garden: they burned, and poisoned, and mowed, and dug, drowned and even trampled on horses. And, you know, all is fair. It only happens that one of the methods came up to someone and gave a result, while the other did not. Therefore, only empirically you can understand what in fact can help you get rid of the misfortune. The main control measures can be: treatment with herbicides, depletion of rhizomes, isolation and control of excessive moisture in the area.

Herbicides and other chemicals for removing reeds

You wanted to know what herbicide can be used to kill reeds. Basically, gardeners use the well-known Roundup, a continuous-action herbicide to combat annual and perennial dicotyledonous and cereal weeds based on glyphosate, a substance that blocks the synthesis of amino acids in plant cells.

Be sure to use protective equipment when working with Roundup!

According to the manufacturer, it must completely destroy both the aboveground and underground parts of the weeds by direct contact with leaves or shoots. But keep in mind - it is toxic, including for humans, so take precautions and use protection, such as a respirator, gloves, glasses, overalls, and a hat. Try a double treatment with this product in dry warm weather - 15-25 degrees. Run the first over young plants, 10-15 cm high, and the second (if the first does not help completely) in July, in the earing phase. The final death of the weed should occur in 20 days. It is believed that the application of this herbicide in the spring to vegetating weeds during the period of active growth is not as effective as summer spraying, when all the processes of supplying the plant with nutrients go down to the roots. But the main thing for us is to destroy the roots. Calculate the dosage according to the manufacturer's instructions on the package.

Alternative herbicides to Roundup - Tornado, Hurricane Forte, GlyfAlt - are also based on glyphosate.

There is one little trick that skilled gardeners use when treating an area with chemicals. First, they mow the cereal to a height of about 5 centimeters, then they draw a herbicide solution into a syringe and inject it from above into the trunk of the plant, where the cut is formed. So the liquid penetrates faster to the roots. Some instead of Roundup use ordinary kerosene for this purpose.

Fighting roots

In addition to etching with chemistry, crushing rhizomes and deep digging of the soil will help you in the fight against the pest. In late spring or early summer, plow the soil under the weed to a depth of about 30–40 cm and leave. Wait three weeks for the rhizomes to dry, then you need to pull them out of the ground with a rake or by hand, and dig the area deep again. This treatment is carried out 4 times, constantly combing out the remnants of the roots. This technique can be repeated for the winter: in November, dig up the soil with reeds and leave it in this form until spring - some of the rhizomes will freeze.

Here's what else gardeners have come up with: they mow the entire area overgrown with harmful cereals, and then immediately water it thoroughly. They say that the cereal does not tolerate when water gets inside the stem - it begins to rot from the inside.

What additional measures can be taken on the site

  • So that the weed does not bother you, deprive it of the opportunity to reproduce: do not allow self-sowing, mow, mow and mow again! Avoid a situation in which reeds or reeds grow near neighbors and let their roots into your territory. Isolate their penetration with a sheet of iron or other durable material dug into the soil to a depth of at least a meter around the entire perimeter of the problem area.
  • Fight stagnant water, lower the water table with drainage ditches and drains. You can organize a small drainage pond in your garden for this purpose at the lowest point of the site.
  • Check the acidity of the soil. Plants can be an indicator of acidic soil. If you have a lot of insects, anemone, cat's paws, drooping sedge, sorrel, veronica, plantain, mint or horsetail in your garden - the soil is acidic. Raise its pH level by liming, adding ash or dolomite flour. Treat the area regularly, do not let it stagnate: change the soil, add sand, fill it with cultivated plants with good rooting, which will help to stifle the weed. It may happen that without deep digging of the rhizomes, it will not be possible to remove it. You will have to dig to a depth of at least a meter and manually clear the soil of weeds. Well, this is already a last resort.

All of the above activities will most likely and in combination will help to remove the malicious cereal in your area. We wish you success in your hard work, and be sure to share your result with us later!

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Reed control methods

1. Mowing

One of the safest and most affordable ways to deal with reeds is by mowing. To achieve the effect, the procedure for removing unwanted growth should be performed twice a year. In the spring - after the first shoots appear, and in the fall, before the onset of cold weather. You can also take additional measures. For example, after mowing, cover the area with a thick piece of cloth or tarpaulin. Press down the material from above with something weighty (for example, stones). Deprived of oxygen, the root system of the reeds will eventually die.

If the reeds have grown along the banks of an artificial reservoir located on the site, then you can mow it right in the water. The main thing is that the cut plant is five to ten centimeters below the water level. Once in a pond, the reeds will begin to rot. After the weed is completely destroyed, you must remember to thoroughly clean the pond, otherwise the water will bloom.

2. Burnout

This method of getting rid of thickets of reeds on the site is one of the most dangerous and extreme. Here it is important to clearly control your actions so that the flame in no case spreads to other plantings or a neighboring vegetable garden. It is worth filling the reeds with gasoline, and then setting fire to the plantings. It should be remembered that the reeds must burn for at least one hour. This is due to the fact that the plant has a very powerful root system, which will not be so easy to destroy.

3. Chemicals

It is possible and necessary to fight reed thickets with the help of herbicides. A universal remedy against many weeds - Roundup. To destroy reeds, thirty grams of the drug should be diluted in one liter of distilled water. The plant should be processed at least two times per season, and preferably three times. The herbicide will systematically affect the entire plant through the leaves, leading to the death of the weed.

4. Drainage and deoxidation of the soil

Reeds that have taken root on the site can be fought by draining the soil. It is quite simple to do this: along the entire site (where the weed thickets are located), the gardener digs drainage ditches. The direction of the slope of the drainage ditch should be in the direction of the nearest reservoir (river, pond) or the place where water will drain.

Next, you should mow the reeds. Experienced gardeners do this in late spring - early summer, when the garden weed is in the stage of active growth. After mowing, you should dig up the soil, and after two to three weeks, treat the place where the reeds were recently mowed with a herbicide. Roundup, Hurricane and Buran will do.

If the reeds literally flood your site, do not delay getting rid of this "uninvited" guest. Otherwise, the plant will cause irreparable damage to the garden, and it will take a very, very long time to restore the composition of the soil and put things in order on the site.


How to get rid of weeds on the site

There are several ways to deal with weeds. First, let's define what is hidden under the concept of "weeds". As a rule, these are tall one - and perennial plants, such as thistle, thistle, nettle, yarrow, wormwood, mullein, burdock, quinoa, runny. It is important to know that all these plants do not tolerate constant mowing, are sensitive to the effects of herbicides and prolonged shading. It is these properties that must be used in the fight against weeds. So, let's look at different options.

If possible, it is necessary to plow virgin lands before winter, leaving large clods without breaking. This will help to partially freeze part of the rhizomes of perennials. In the spring, arable land is cultivated by breaking up clods and leveling the ground. It would be nice to say that this is where weed control ends, but unfortunately this is not the case.

The fact is that a huge number of perennial rhizomes with thousands of underground buds remain in the soil. As soon as the sun warms up, they will sprout and the area will be covered with a carpet of fresh greenery. Therefore, during and after cultivation, you need to carefully select all the roots from the ground and put them in a compost heap (or simply dry in the sun).

Herbicide treatment

Sprouted young green weeds must be treated with herbicides - drugs that inhibit plant growth. They are used when plants are actively growing, in spring and in the first half of summer.

Weeds can be sprayed with herbicides before plowing, but again only at the beginning of the season. Since July, treatment with these drugs has not been particularly effective.

The grass begins to turn yellow and dry in about a week, and after a month, it is already possible to lay a garden with a vegetable garden and flower beds on the site of the former virgin land.

High ridges

Many summer residents are opposed to the use of pesticides. In this case, boxes made of boards, slate or metal are equipped right on the virgin soil. The bottom is lined with cardboard, and the top is made "layer cake" from various organic waste.

The mowed grass is used, both fresh and dried, as well as fallen leaves. All this is shifted with thin layers of earth, peat, and manure. A fertile layer is laid out from above, into which seeds are sown and seedlings are planted.

Shading areas

If you isolate the weeds from the light for a long time, they will certainly die. The method of combating weeds by covering future ridges with some opaque material is based on this phenomenon. It can be anything from multi-layer cardboard to old rugs and carpets. For these purposes, it is convenient to use black spunbond, geotextile, slate, roofing felt, old banners.

The coating should lie in one place for at least a season, for example, from spring to spring. In this case, most of the weeds die and the area cleared from them can be used for a vegetable garden.

Regular mowing

If there is no desire or opportunity to completely free the area from weeds, then you can "tame" wild vegetation and gradually turn it into a beautiful and even lawn. To do this, carry out the initial mowing with a trimmer disc, and then regularly, at least twice a month, mow the site with a lawn mower.

Most plants will not survive such violence and will die. Only a few cereal grasses will survive, for which regular mowing only stimulates tillering, and dandelions with clover. In a year or two, instead of a weed wasteland, there will be a lawn with a smooth and healthy lawn.

Combination of ways

The most optimal solution would be to combine different techniques in one area. So in the beginning, you can break high beds and get vegetables and strawberries this season. Covering material is spread nearby for the subsequent expansion of the areas reclaimed from the weeds. Next year, you can sow vegetables here or organize a flower garden.

Where a lawn is planned according to the plan, weeds are regularly cut down and with this organic matter they mulch the beds and clog the compost bins. Thus, without special material and labor costs, you can gradually displace the weeds from the site.

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Basic information about reeds

Common reed, or reed, on the site is a big trouble. It is very difficult to fight him.Reed is a moisture-loving, deep rhizome plant, prefers heavy waterlogged soils. The roots penetrate deeply - up to 3.5 meters, and the bulk of the roots is located at a depth of 30-60 cm. The reed propagates by seeds or vegetatively, that is, by roots.

The main ones in reeds are horizontal rhizomes, from which, after 2-3 months, vertical shoots are formed, turning into ground shoots. The rhizomes of the reeds bear many dormant buds - up to 270 per square meter. On vertical rhizomes, a lot of adventitious roots are formed, descending to groundwater. Pruning rhizomes of reeds during soil cultivation causes increased formation of aboveground stems. Horizontal shoots reach 10-15 meters - they are able to take root and multiply rapidly throughout their length.

To prevent the spread of reeds, you need to systematically work on the reclamation state of the site, carry out planning, drain water, and make drainage. It is important to prevent stagnation of water, to carry out work to reduce its level.

The most important thing when killing weed rhizomes is to bring the buds out of their dormant state so that they awaken. It is also important to crush, chop the rhizomes into as small pieces as possible. This is necessary so that further tillage will lead them to depletion and death.

There are several methods for killing weeds, including reeds. These are methods of strangulation, drying, freezing, keeping the contaminated area under steam. Let's briefly consider what they are.


How to remove from the site

Today, it is possible to deal with reeds on the site with the help of folk or chemical agents. The choice of one or another method is determined taking into account the degree of damage to the site.

Mowing

This method is notable for its availability and safety. To get the maximum effect, it is necessary to remove the unnecessary plant 2 times a year.

At the same time, it is fashionable to mow other weeds. In the spring, as soon as the first shoots have formed, the first processing of the city is carried out. But the second should be carried out in the fall, before the cold weather sets in.

There are still a number of additional steps you can take. Very often, after mowing, the site is covered with a bush of dense cloth or tarpaulin. It is necessary to lay stones on top of the material so that the shelter does not fall off. Thus, the root system of the reeds will be deprived of oxygen and will simply die over time. But how to get rid of the sow thistle weed in the garden can be done in other ways, as indicated in the article by the link.

The video shows how to get rid of reeds on the site:

When there is an overgrowth of reeds along the banks of an artificial reservoir made on the site, then mowing can be carried out directly on the water. At the same time, make sure that the plant is concentrated 5-10 cm below the water level. As soon as the reeds are in the water, they will start to rot. Once the weed has been completely eradicated, the pond will need to be cleared. If this is not done, then the water will bloom. It will also be useful to learn how to get rid of wood lice weed in the garden.

Burning out

This method is effectively used to combat reeds in a city where any other crops are absent. Otherwise, there is a chance that the fire will hit them too. This method of dealing with reeds is dangerous and extreme.

When performing such operations, you should carefully monitor all your actions. Otherwise, the flame can spread to the rest of the plantings or a neighboring vegetable garden. To complete the procedure, you need to fill the reeds with gasoline, and then turn on the fire. Please note that the plant must burn for at least 1 hour. This is due to the fact that the reed has a powerful root system, which is not always so easy to destroy. But how effective is the fight against weeds in the garden on your own and what are the best means, indicated in this article.

Chemicals

To combat reeds, it is effective to use herbicides. There are not so many of them today, but among the available drugs, a universal one can be distinguished. Its name is Roundup.

To remove the reeds, you need to take 1 liter of purified water and place 30 g of the drug there. Carry out the processing of plants at least 2 times per season. The herbicide will begin to exert an even effect on the entire plant through the leaves. As a result, the weed will begin to die. You should also pay attention to a folk remedy for weeds with vinegar.

Tornado remains another effective drug. To prepare the solution, you need to take 3 liters of water and 25 ml of the drug.

After spraying, the active components of the weed tornado penetrate through the leaves and stems into the root system. Thus, the reed dies over time. Tornado is also great for preparing the soil before sowing.

The next effective chemical is considered to be the Hurricane weed control agent. To prepare the solution, it is necessary to dilute 40 ml of the drug in 3 liters of water. As soon as the herbicide penetrates the leaves of the reeds, it will begin to have a detrimental effect on its cells, and this entails the death of the weed.

Drainage and deacidification of the soil

To combat the reeds that have taken root in your garden, you can use the drainage of the soil. To do this, it is necessary to dig drainage ditches in those places where the weed grows. The direction of the slope of the drainage ditch should be in the direction of a nearby pond or river. In this case, the Tornado weed extractor can be used.

After that, it remains to mow the reeds. This is best done in late spring or early summer. After that, dig up the soil, and after 2-3 weeks treat the place of crop growth with various herbicides - Hurricane, Roundup and Buran. It is also worth learning more about an existing effective weed control agent.

It turns out that it is not so easy to deal with reeds on the site. And although today there are quite a few effective methods, reeds still actively colonize various parts of the garden, harming not only the soil, but also some garden crops. From the proposed options, each gardener will be able to find his own unique way, having tried which he will forever be able to forget about such a weed as reeds.


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