Pests and diseases that are most often found on garden strawberry plantations

 Pests and diseases that are most often found on garden strawberry plantations

If you still have not observed strange-looking spots, wrinkled leaves, twisted shoots, gray bloom and small bugs on your garden strawberries, consider yourself incredibly lucky, since the pests and diseases of garden strawberries are extremely diverse.

The most common pests of garden strawberries

It is difficult to imagine how many insects and various viral, fungal, bacterial pathogens can damage the plants in your area, ruining the entire berry crop.

Strawberry pest control includes a whole range of measures from spraying with special preparations to processing strawberry bushes in hot water. Of course, the key to success is the use of healthy seedlings, so always before planting garden strawberries, carefully watch that there are no damage or signs of disease on the bushes. And you should not leave infected plants in the garden either.

The key to success is using healthy seedlings

You can prevent the appearance of insect pests in strawberry beds in advance by spraying with karbofos preventively before the bushes begin to bloom. The second preventive treatment is carried out after the last berry is harvested, but no later than mid-August.

Video about growing strawberries without diseases and pests

Strawberry mite

It is the most common and most dangerous pest of garden strawberries. Tiny insects (up to 0.2 mm) of white or yellow color, with an oblong oval body, damage strawberry leaves, laying eggs in them in spring and sucking juice from the leaves. As a result of the activity of the strawberry mite, the leaves become wrinkled, oily, and the berries become smaller. Severely affected garden strawberries can die completely.

To prevent strawberry mites from appearing on your site, initially check whether you are planting healthy seedlings. Additionally, you can warm up the seedling bushes before planting for 15 minutes in hot water, and then rinse in cold and dry in the shade. Before the flowering of garden strawberries, as a prophylaxis or for the destruction of a tick, treatment with an ordinary infusion of onion husks is used. Infected bushes are treated with gray colloid in early spring and "Neoron" before strawberry flowering. Severely damaged plants are removed from the garden in August.

To prevent strawberry mites from appearing on your site, initially check whether you are planting healthy seedlings

Raspberry-strawberry weevil

In the spring, a grayish-black weevil, about 2 mm long, emerges from under the fallen leaves and lumps of soil. He begins to gnaw through holes in strawberry leaves, and female weevils lay larvae in strawberry buds, which subsequently gnaw the leaves and buds of strawberries. To get rid of the raspberry-strawberry weevil, 5 days before the flowering of strawberries, it should be treated with an emulsion of karbofos, spraying should also be repeated at the end of August. When preparing strawberries for wintering, do not forget to destroy all plant debris and loosen the aisles.

In the spring, a grayish-black weevil emerges from under the fallen leaves and lumps of soil, about 2 mm long

Red ants, slugs, millipedes, snails

On plantations that are located in shaded, damp places, these strawberry pests are quite common. To preserve your strawberry plantation, treat garden strawberries with metaldehyde (3 g of product per 1 sq.m.) even before flowering begins. Repeat the treatment after collecting all the berries from the garden. To fight ants, it is more effective to scatter the product in places where insects accumulate.

Strawberry diseases - prevention and control measures

In open ground, fungal diseases of garden strawberry are most often found due to errors in agricultural technology. They can affect the manifestation of diseases following errors:

  • improper watering,
  • poorly chosen place (shady, too humid),
  • thickening of plants,
  • Overfeeding strawberries with nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
  • rejection of autumn pruning of strawberry leaves.

Gray rot

Observance of crop rotation will help prevent the appearance of gray rot

The spread of this dangerous disease is evidenced by rapidly growing brown spots on the leaves with a noticeable velvety gray coating. The gray rot of strawberries also spreads to the buds, causing them to die off, to the fruits and to the peduncle, as a result of which the entire strawberry bush can die.

Observance of crop rotation, timely elimination of weeds and collection of berries, as well as the urgent destruction of diseased parts of strawberries, as soon as the first warning signs are found on them, will help prevent the appearance of gray rot. Before the growing season, it is recommended to spray strawberry plantings with Bordeaux liquid, after collecting strawberries - with azocene.

Late blight wilting

After abundant spring and autumn rains, the roots of garden strawberries may be affected by late blight wilting, which leads to the death of the fibrous roots. Strawberry bushes, affected by the disease, slow down their growth, look depressed, small gray leaves appear on them, old leaves quickly fade during the ripening of the berries. After a year, the fruiting of infected strawberries stops, and the next year the plant dies. You can fight late blight wilting of strawberries by maintaining optimal moisture in the earth and promptly removing damaged plants found.

After a year, the fruiting of infected strawberries stops, and the next year the plant dies

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew, a well-known disease of garden strawberries, spreads by air. It can easily be brought to the site with infected planting material. Diseased plants become covered with a grayish bloom, the berries begin to smell like mold and acquire a bluish tint.

Before planting, carefully select strawberry bushes, lay the beds on illuminated, ventilated areas of the earth. If you notice a gray tint, remove the affected plant parts. Before flowering, spray the plantations with colloidal sulfur or soda ash, you can also treat it with Topaz. Repeat the treatment after removing the last crop from the plants.

Brown spot

By the middle of summer, you can notice dark purple spots on the leaves of garden strawberries, and on the top of the leaves you can see black pads with mushroom spores, bursting in the rain. Severely affected leaf blades die off. This is how the brown spot of strawberries is manifested. Its danger lies in the fact that the mass dying off of leaves negatively affects the next harvest.

Video about protecting strawberries from a strawberry-raspberry weevil

In the fight against any types of spotting of garden strawberries, removing all old leaves from strawberry bushes in spring and spraying the plantations with Bordeaux liquid (concentration 4%) or nitrafen helps. During the growing season, it will be necessary to spray the strawberry bushes with Bordeaux liquid (concentration 1%) before flowering, then after 11 days and a third time after all the berries have been collected. If the disease has spread widely throughout the plantation, additionally spray the strawberries with a solution of sulfuric acid in the fall so that new healthy leaves will grow by the spring. Also, do not forget to change the location of strawberry plantations every 4 years, as old plantations are especially often affected by spots.


Diseases of garden strawberries and their treatment

So, we figured out the pests of garden strawberries, we will also get acquainted with the diseases of our pet.

Strawberries are an indispensable attribute of the plots of most gardeners. But the culture is fragile and delicate.

Not only the taste is delicate, the plant also needs support: numerous diseases of strawberries are plagued by planting.

The berry itself will not cope with any immunity.

Therefore, the plant will have to groom and undead the whole season: from awakening to the end of the growing season. Also prepare thoroughly for wintering.

Difficulties do not frighten the real lover of fragrant berries and other plants. He is a cook, nanny and doctor for garden guests.

Proper care will provide.


Protect your garden and vegetable garden from pests and diseases with what is at hand

Modern plant protection products are not always at hand at the right time. And the ripening crop cannot be treated with chemicals. The materials at hand will help out.

Laundry soap

The solution is used against aphids on vegetable crops (200-300 g per 10 liters of warm water).

Tobacco dust

Almost universal pest control. Dust is sprinkled on flower crops of the cabbage family, as well as carnations, dahlias, gladioli, delphiniums, irises, peonies to protect against cruciferous flea beetles, sucking insects (30-50 g per 10 m²). Infusions and decoctions of tobacco dust will save currants, gooseberries, cherries, sweet cherries, plums, chokeberries from leaf-eating caterpillars, aphids, moths, sawflies. For infusion, take 1 liter of dust per 10 liters of warm water, insist for a day, filter and dilute with water 1: 3 before use, add 40 g of soap per 10 liters of solution. Spray fruit 15 days before harvest.

A solution of iodine (5-10 drops per 10 liters of water) promotes better growth of strawberries and protects them from diseases. Spray the plants once a season before flowering.

Zelenka

If the pumpkin peel is damaged during transportation, treat the "wounds" with brilliant green - then the fruits can be stored for a long time. The same is done with dahlia tubers after stripping rotted areas during storage.

Potassium permanganate

It will help in the fight against strawberry gray rot (2 tsp per 10 liters of water), powdery mildew on berry bushes (dark pink solution), wireworm (spill the soil with a solution of 2 g per 10 liters of water before planting plants). When preparing potatoes for seeds, freshly dug tubers are washed in a strong solution.

A solution of chalk (1 tablespoon per bucket of water) is used to prevent the ovaries from falling off in cherries and plums growing on acidic soils. Due to the lack of lime, the plants do not form a bone, so the ovary falls off. Two or three times with an interval of 10-12 days, you need to water the soil under the trees abundantly with a solution.

Mustard powder

The soil pollinated with powder will become an obstacle for slugs. In the first half of summer, berry bushes are sprayed with infusion against gooseberry moth and sawflies (100 g per 10 liters of water, leave for 2 days, strain, dilute in half with water and add 40 g of soap for every 10 liters). The same infusion will protect fruit trees from caterpillars of the apple moth and leaf-gnawing caterpillars (process trees 15–20 days after flowering), will help cabbage and root crops get rid of aphids, bugs, thrips.

Ground black and red pepper

In some cases, ground pepper, black and red, can be substituted for tobacco. Sprinkle pepper in the aisles after watering, before loosening, and it will scare cabbage flies and flea bees from radishes.

A good trap for a bear. A glass jar is smeared with honey from the inside at the neck and dug into the ground. The neck is closed with a board with a gap of 1-1.5 cm.

Sugar

A sugar solution (1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water) will attract bees to bee-pollinated hybrids. Plants need to be sprayed.

A solution of sodium chloride will keep the ants out of the strawberry patches. A pack of salt poured onto a fresh stump and roots will drown out the growth of a newly felled tree and bush. The same method will not allow horseradish to grow: after digging out unnecessary bushes, pour some salt on the remaining root, and the horseradish will die.

Kefir

Protects black currants from powdery mildew. The bushes are tied and treated with a mixture of kefir and water (1: 1).

Eggshell

Protect vegetables from the bear. The shell is introduced into the soil in the form of a crushed powder mixed with vegetable oil before sowing.

Apple vinegar

Aphids simply cannot stand it. In addition, vinegar is also good against fungal diseases. Taking a tablespoon per liter of water, spray the plants with this solution (in cloudy weather).

Sunflower oil

Diluted in water, it will protect strawberries from ants. To spray leaves affected by fungus, take 1 tablespoon of oil per 3 liters of water.

Onion peel

Onion husks scattered in the areas of garden strawberries will not allow ticks to the plants. You can spray carrot crops with decoction of onion peels to scare off carrot flies. For processing carrots before storage, an infusion is good (50-100 g of husk per 1 liter of water, leave for 3-5 days). Root vegetables are dipped in it for 10 minutes and, without drying, are laid in storage.


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Re: Diseases and pests of strawberries. Fight and prevention.

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Re: Diseases and pests of strawberries. Fight and prevention.

Message from Love-me » 10.03.2015, 09:25

Preparations for diseases and pests

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Re: Diseases and pests of strawberries. Fight and prevention.

Message from nickn » 10.03.2015, 10:42

Love-I wrote: Preparations for diseases and pests

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For myself, I took recommendations from the Grape forum, it should be in the form of a table, but I cannot insert a plate

Terms of protective measures Harmful objects Preparations and norms

The beginning of the regrowth of leaves: Weevils, leaf beetles, gray rot, powdery mildew, leaf spot: Aktelik 500 EC - 6ml. + Horus 75 WG - 6g. for 5 liters. water

Extending peduncles: Strawberry mite, raspberry-strawberry weevil, leaf beetle, gray rot, powdery mildew, brown and white leaf spot: Aktelik 500 EC - 6ml + Switch 62.5 WG - 10g. + Topaz 100 EC - 6 ml. for 5 liters. water

End of flowering: Gray rot, powdery mildew, brown and white leaf spot: Switch 62.5 WG - 10g. for 5 liters. water

After harvest: Ground pests: Aktara 25 WG - watering at the root with a 0.2% solution at the rate of 30-50 ml. under each plant

After harvest: Strawberry mite, gray mold, powdery mildew, brown and white leaf spot: Aktelik 500 EC - 6ml. + Horus 75 WG - 6g. for 5 liters. water

The phase of the start of the development... For gray rot, spotting, powdery mildew, spray with Horus fungicide (6g for 3-4 liters of water - enough for 1 hundred square meters)

The beginning of budding phase From weevils, ticks, etc. Actellik (6g for 3-4 liters of water) + Switch (8-10g for 3-4 liters of water) from spots and gray rot. If there are bears, beetle larvae, pour 0.2% Aktar at 30-40 ml at the root. under the bush.

End of flowering - berry growth If during this period it rains, fog, dew, process it with a Switch. The waiting period for him before harvesting is 7 days.

Last treatment After harvest and mowing of leaves The protective period of Aktellika, depending on the weather, is 7-10 days.
With soil application Aktara acts. the substance does not accumulate in the fruit. The protective period is up to 60 days. (From the instructions) prevention with Horus (3g per 1 hundred square meters)


Diseases and pests of garden strawberry (strawberry)

Home page ›Forums› Forum about garden and vegetable garden ›Diseases and pests of garden strawberries (strawberries)

This thread has 32 replies, 1 member, and was last updated Oksana Gula 9 months, 3 weeks back.

In this topic, illustrations and descriptions of the most common diseases and pests of garden strawberries (strawberries) will be collected. The photographs were selected in such a way as to show the most characteristic signs of disorders, diseases and injuries.

Investments:

Chlorosis of strawberry leaves is a complex indicator of the lack of potassium, magnesium, zinc. Affected plants are smaller and less productive. Intensifies after fruiting.

Investments:

Lack of iron (iron chlorosis)

Iron deficiency in strawberry nutrition leads to chlorosis of young, rapidly growing leaves, while the veins of platinum leaves remain green. Over time, the chloroticity increases, the leaf becomes as if bleached, the veins also lighten and begin to collapse.

Old leaves remain green.

Investments:

Potassium deficiency

The first symptoms of potassium deficiency on garden strawberries appear on old leaves. Their edges (the tips of the teeth) turn red, the redness gradually moves (between the veins) into the inside of the leaf, until most of the leaf plate changes color.

Investments:

Phosphorus deficiency

Lack of phosphorus causes leaves to turn purple-red. At first they become very dark, then the upper surface acquires a metallic sheen, and the lower one turns red. The berries are tasteless.

Investments:

Boron deficiency


Plants develop slowly. The sheet is corrugated, deformed, sometimes bent like a sail. Deformed flowers may occur. The berry is deformed, tasteless. The harvest is low. The formation is weak.

However, the cause of the formation of a deformed berry can be poor pollination of the flower and freezing of strawberries during recurrent frosts.

Investments:

Deformed fruits

There are many reasons for fruit deformation:
- winter freezing of flower buds
- freezing of a flower during spring return frosts
- damage to the flower with thrips
- calcium or boron deficiency
- excess nitrogen
- insufficient pollination (wet weather, very hot weather, no pollinator variety)
- violation of water balance
- berry damage by hail.

Investments:

Unsweetened berry

The reasons for unsweetened berries can be:
- varietal feature
- nutritional imbalance (excess nitrogen, lack of potassium or boron)
- violation of the irrigation regime (excess moisture)
- lack of illumination.

Investments:

Brown spot


The causative agent of brown spot is a mushroom Marssonina potentillae.

The disease manifests itself in the second half of summer and develops until the end of the growing season. Numerous vague, rounded or angular red-brown (almost black) spots appear on the foliage, the middle of which becomes lighter (turns brown) over time. Both petioles and whiskers are often affected.

Investments:

White spot (ramulariasis)


The causative agent of white spot is a mushroom Ramularia tulasnei Sacc.

The disease manifests itself in the spring, in mid-May. Numerous small reddish-brown specks of an angular or rounded shape appear on the leaves, which gradually turn white, but remain with a dark red border. In the heat, the necrotic tissue of the spots cracks and falls out (this is a distinctive feature of this disease).

Investments:

Brown or angular spotting (zithiosis)


The causative agent is a mushroom Zythia fragariae

The disease manifests itself in the middle of summer. Reddish rounded spots appear on the leaves of strawberries, which quickly grow from the edge of the leaf to the center, along the veins, acquiring an irregular angular shape. The necrotic tissue turns gray-brown, but a purple border is always left.
Leaf petioles and whiskers are also affected, on which oval brown spots and constrictions are formed. Both the stalks and sepals are affected. In this case, the ovary turns brown and dries up.

Investments:


In the photo, anthracnose rot of the berry

The causative agent is a mushroom Colletotrichum acutatum Simmonds.
The disease affects the entire plant. It develops especially strongly in years with wet spring and summer.

Small rounded spots (up to 3 mm in diameter) are formed on the leaves, gray in the middle, surrounded by a purple border. On the stems there are gray spots and shallow deep sores, with a wide purple edging. With the development of the disease, the spots merge and the stems are covered with a continuous brownish (in autumn gray) cracking tissue, which leads to the death of the ends of the shoots. Fruit clusters affected by anthracnose die off along with unripe berries.
When unripe berries are affected by anthracnose, one or more brown, or black, depressed spots, up to 3 mm in diameter, appear conically deepening into the berry. On mature spots have a well-defined edge. The brown-bronze color of the spots turns black. The rot becomes dry, hard.


Common strawberry pests and methods of dealing with them

There are a huge number of insects that damage bushes and strawberries. The most troublesome of them is the transparent strawberry mite. He eats young leaves.
Insect prevention is carried out during the growing season before flowering and after the last harvest, but no later than mid-August.

Strawberry nematode

Strawberry nematode - is a type of damage and a pest. In early spring, young strawberry leaves grow twisted, cuttings have a shortened and deformed shape. The plant has a fragile and fragile structure. The berries are also not forming correctly. The pest in this case is a microscopic nematode located on the surface of the plant.
How to fight.
For planting, you must use healthy and undamaged seedlings. Affected plants should be carefully removed with roots from the ground and burned. Especially valuable varieties of strawberries are moistened in hot water (46 ° C) for 10 minutes before planting, and then cooled in cold water for 10-15 minutes.

Raspberry-strawberry weevil

Grayish black insect, 2-3 mm long. It hibernates under lumps of soil and fallen leaves. In the spring, when the growth of the bushes resumes, and the air temperature is more than 13 ° C, this beetle leaves its wintering places and feeds on strawberry leaves, gnawing small through holes. When the buds are tied, the female weevils lay one egg at a time. One female can lay 50 to 100 eggs. The larvae are white, they are legless, bent, with yellow heads. These larvae damage leaves and buds by gnawing at them. By the end of the berry picking, young beetles are born, they feed on the remnants of fruits and leaves, and then go to winter.
How to fight.
When the buds are extended and detached (no later than 5-6 days before the flowering of the plant, and immediately after harvesting the fruits), strawberries are sprayed with a 0.3% emulsion of 50% karbofos in a ratio of 30 g per 10 liters of water. Sprayed with one of the drugs: decis, spark or confidor. Plant residues are destroyed, the aisles are loosened.

Nettle weevil

The insect is bright green in color with a wide but short proboscis, its length is 12 mm. It eats strawberry leaves from the edges in figured or even sections. When buds appear, this type of weevil pupates. The larvae are white, curved, wrinkled, with a dark head; during wintering they are in the soil. By the middle of summer, they begin to damage the roots of strawberry bushes.
How to fight.
The culture is grown in one place for no more than four years. The soil is loosened during the budding period and after harvesting the fruits. Before flowering, strawberries are treated with an emulsion of karbofos 50% with a calculation of 25-30 g per 10 liters of water. Sprayed with one of the drugs: decis, spark or confidor.

Strawberry mite

One of the most dangerous pests of garden strawberries. This insect has an oblong-oval body, white, eventually becomes yellow, its length is 0.2 mm. The mite damages the leaves of the plant. During the wintering period, females live at the base of the leaf petioles. In the spring, when the leaves begin to grow, and the air temperature rises above 13 ° C, they lay eggs in the leaves that have not yet unfolded, and suck out the cell sap from them. The leaves become oily and wrinkled, the berries are very small. Severely affected strawberry bushes inevitably die. The number of strawberry mites increases by the beginning of summer and reaches a maximum by August. These pests spread throughout the plantation. They give 4-5 generations.
How to fight.
The planting material must be free of contamination. Before planting, the plants are rendered harmless by warming them up in hot water (45 ° C) for 10-15 minutes. After this procedure, the strawberry bushes are washed in cold water and then dried in a dark room.
Infected bushes in early spring, after the appearance of green leaves, should be treated with a special preparation "Colloidal sulfur" with the calculation of 50-60 g per 10 liters of water, spending 1-2 liters of the resulting solution per 10 square meters. m (processing is carried out at an air temperature of at least 10 ° C). The second treatment is carried out ten days before the flowering of strawberries. The drug "Neoron" is used (5 ml of the substance is diluted in 5 liters of water), with a consumption of a liter of solution per 10 square meters. m. In case of a strong infection of a strawberry plantation with a tick, immediately after harvesting the fruits, the leaves must be mowed and removed from the site. The soil should be watered abundantly and mineral fertilized. At ambient temperatures above 13 ° C, the plant must be sprayed with colloidal sulfur or wettable sulfur powder (75-100 g per 10 liters of water) or Karbaphos at the rate of 60 g per 10 liters of water.
The most effective and environmentally friendly means of combating this pest is considered to be the colonization of a strawberry plantation with a predatory mite that destroys dangerous mites.

Snails, slugs, red ants and centipedes

These pests of strawberry bushes severely damage the fruits of the plant. They like damp, shaded areas with humus soils.
How to fight.
A strawberry plantation before flowering and after harvesting fruits is treated with metaldehyde at the rate of 3-4 g of funds per sq. m., to reduce the number of snails and slugs. To fight ants, it should be scattered in places where these insects accumulate. A mixture of a glass of vegetable oil and 0.5 liters of table vinegar, as well as a solution of vinegar essence at the rate of 1 tbsp, will be effective in this case. for 10 liters of water, which is used to treat the soil with ant colonies.

Spider mite

The symptoms are similar to the results of the activity of the above-mentioned pests, however, with a strong defeat, the leaves of the strawberry become entangled in cobwebs, they quickly turn yellow and dry out.
How to fight.
The most effective method is spraying strawberry bushes with karbofos at the rate of 3 tbsp. substances per 10 liters of water. The solution must have a temperature of at least 30 ° C.
It should be sprayed immediately after the last harvest. Plants are watered with a solution from a watering can by sprinkling throughout the plantation. After watering, you need to tightly cover the entire plantation with foil for three hours. Such means of control will also cope with strawberry beetles, weevils, whiteflies and other pests.
If the plants of garden strawberries were severely damaged by a transparent mite (more than 80%), then after the last collection of berries and treatment with a solution of karbofos, it is imperative to mow them. This must be done no later than August 10, so that the bushes have time to form a good crown of leaves before winter. This is the only way strawberries will be able to winter safely.

Folk methods of pest control

Before flowering, strawberries are treated with infusion of garlic pulp or onion husks. This remedy can be used as a prophylaxis or to scare away strawberry mites, but not to destroy them. In case of minor infestation of garden strawberries on the plantation, the damaged plants should be removed and burned.

Common strawberry diseases and methods of dealing with them

It is worth remembering that it is always much easier to prevent the onset of a disease than to fight it for a long time and successfully.

Withers

Fusarium wilting... The reason why strawberries darken and then dry. The first signs are necrosis at the edges of the leaves of the plant and weak wilting of the damaged parts of the leaf. Leaves and petioles gradually turn brown, after which they die off. The rosette falls apart, and the affected bushes sink to the ground, as if "sitting down". The plant dies after a month and a half.
Late blight wilting. Redness of the axial cylinder. It can be transient and chronic. In the chronic form in the spring, sick bushes are late in development, the leaves are cupped and have a grayish tint. Old leaves wither and dry quickly, fruiting decreases significantly or stops altogether. Often, death occurs several years after the moment of infection. With a transient form, in the spring, the whole plant suddenly begins to wither or its lower leaves, and in some cases only peduncles. In this case, the fibrous roots gradually die off. The central cylinder of the root of the plant begins to turn red, this is clearly visible if it is cut longitudinally.

Late blight leathery rot, fruits, roots and root collar. Often, the lower leaves begin to wither first, they turn downward with their upper side, and then lie down. At the base of the peduncles, petioles and on the root collar, ringed brown spots appear. Older leaves become very stiff, their edges are curled down, and necrosis appears on the veins. In diseased plants - on short lashes, the leaves of the rosettes have a deformed shape. In some cases, the flower darkens in the middle; ovaries and berries are also affected. On the cut of the fruit, you can see the darkening that comes from the stalk.
Verticillary wilting. On light sandy soil, plants die in 3-4 days. On sandy loam and loamy soils, the disease is often slower. In the case of a chronic form, the leaves are delayed in growth, and their number decreases.
By the end of the growing season, the petioles become red, the plants become dwarf and flat. First, the lower, older leaves die, and then the whole bush.
What to do in case of wilting:
First of all, it is necessary to follow agricultural techniques. Strawberries are kept in one place for no more than four years. The plant can be returned to its original place no earlier than six years later. When laying the beds, care must be taken to ensure that the planting material is not infected and damaged. Before planting, it is necessary to dip the roots of plants in solutions of biological preparations: humate K (at a concentration of 15 g / l) and agate 25k (at a concentration of 7 g / l). Damaged plants are removed and destroyed. If you or your neighbors had to deal with wilting diseases of garden strawberries, then you should switch to more resistant varieties.

Mottling

Brown spotting. Sepals and leaves are stained with dark purple hues, which can sometimes coalesce. Gradually, on the spots on the upper side of the leaf, black shiny pads, easily distinguishable with the naked eye, appear, in which there are spores of the fungus. Leaves that are severely affected turn purple and die off quickly.

White leaf spot

White leaf spot. Brown or purple dotted spots appear on the leaves, growing and whitening in the center. Often, the whitened center falls out, which is characteristic only for this disease. Usually, the spots on the leaves do not merge. On the petioles, whiskers and peduncles, the spots are depressed, dark brown, with a very strong lesion, the peduncles can dry out.

Brown or angular spotting.

Brown or angular spotting. The danger of this disease is often underestimated. It can cause particular harm to garden strawberries growing in the south of Russia: from mid-July, the leaves begin to die off en masse. In the second half of summer, flower buds form, which means that you should not count on a good harvest next year. On the leaves (often old), brownish spots of an indefinite or round shape appear with a dark border and a light center. Gradually, the spots grow, and the leaves dry out. Usually spots are located along the edge of the leaf blade or along the midrib of the leaf.
What measures should be taken for spotting:
In early spring, as soon as the snow melts, you need to clear the beds of old leaves. Before the beginning of the growing season, strawberry bushes should be sprayed with 3-4% Bordeaux liquid. Or, during the growing season, as soon as the leaves begin to grow, before flowering and immediately after harvesting the fruits, you need to spray the plants with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Powdery mildew

The harm that this disease brings depends on when the plant became infected. If the fruit is already harvested, the disease can be controlled with fungicides. And if the berries are at the stage of development and ripening, not only the entire crop can die, but the plant itself. Powdery mildew can affect all aerial parts of the strawberry bush. The affected leaves are curled up in a boat, acquiring a purple hue or a mealy bloom. With the development of this disease during flowering, normal pollination does not occur, therefore, the fruits are formed ugly, they are covered with bloom, have a mushroom smell and taste.
How to deal with powdery mildew:
Before the flowering period and immediately after picking berries, it is necessary to spray the plantation with a soap-copper emulsion with the following calculation: 20 g of copper sulfate and soap per 10 liters of water, then azocene (20 g per 10 liters of water) and topaz (5 g per 10 liters of water) ...

Gray rot

In years favorable for the development of gray rot with frequent precipitation, this disease can destroy up to 90% of the fruits! On the fruits, fast-growing, non-softened spots of light brown color with a fluffy bloom appear. Affected berries dry and mummify. Large blurry spots of dark gray or brown color appear on the leaves, in some cases also with a bloom. The ovaries and stalks are ringed with weeping brown spots and dry.
How to deal with gray mold:
Observe the crop rotation, do not allow the growth of weeds. It is necessary to harvest ripe fruits in a timely manner, to destroy diseased plant parts. When the fruits begin to ripen, you need to mulch the soil with pine needles or clean chopped straw. Fungal diseases are preventable. Before the start of the growing season, strawberry plantings should be sprayed with 3-4% Bordeaux liquid, and immediately after picking berries - with an azocene at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water. To reduce the spread of all varieties of mushroom spots, the leaves should be mowed after harvesting the last fruits.


Protection of raspberries and strawberries from diseases and pests: how to treat bushes

From gray rot, plants are sprayed with biological products: phytosporin-M, planriz, alirin-B, gamair, and from chemical fungicides - topaz, bayleton, propi plus (prognosis) from powdery mildew: bactofit, alirin-B, topaz, propi plus (prognosis ), bayleton for spotting: phytosporin-M, copper preparations. To protect against wilting diseases, before planting, immersion of the root system in a suspension of phytosporin-M for 1-2 hours is carried out to remove bushes with signs of wilting.

The application of chemical disease control measures on raspberries is very limited. Its processing is carried out only in the early spring period (before the beginning of the growing season), at the beginning of the growing season (before flowering or at the beginning of flowering), as well as after harvesting. From purple, white spots, anthracnose, you can recommend spraying in the mother liquor with topaz, propi plus (forecast).

As shown in the photo, in order to protect against diseases and pests on raspberries during the budding period and later, the cutting of the stuck young shoots damaged by the raspberry stem fly is carried out:

At the beginning of bud swelling, spraying with chemical agents against migrating caterpillars of the raspberry moth from wintering sites to the buds. In small areas of raspberries in the morning, when the air temperature does not exceed 15 ° C, they shake off the raspberry-strawberry weevil and the raspberry beetle into a cone-shaped net. Periodically collect and destroy "wormy" berries.

In the phenophase of the outcropping of buds - the isolation of buds on raspberries, spraying with approved preparations against raspberry-strawberry weevil, raspberry beetle and other pests is carried out. Alatar, fufanonnova, novaktion, karbofot, karbofos-500, spark-M are used to treat raspberries from pests and diseases. The threshold value for treatments against the raspberry beetle is the presence of 3-4 or more beetles per 1 bush during the budding period, and against the raspberry-strawberry weevil - the presence of more than 2 beetles per 100 raspberry shoots during the budding period. To treat strawberries from pests and diseases, plantings are sprayed with permitted preparations (fufanonnova, novaktion) during the period of bud isolation, in the presence of more than 2 raspberry weevil beetles or more than 20 strawberry leaf beetles per 50 plants (or 10 linear m row), and also more 15 strawberry leafworm caterpillars per 10 plants, or after flowering if necessary.

For the prevention of viral and phytoplasmic diseases, it is necessary to use certified healthy planting material, to fight against insect vectors (aphids, leafhoppers, nematodes), to destroy weeds - infection reserves, to discard diseased plants.


Watch the video: Diagnosing Strawberry Root Pests